Crete, Greece: Inn-to-Inn Sea Kayaking

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Crete, Greece, Inn to Inn Sea Kayaking The Northwest Passage - 800.RECREATE Crete, Greece, Yoga, Kayaking and Hiking Crete, Greece, Inn-to-Inn Sea Kayaking North Pole and South Pole Expeditions - polarexplorers.com Apostle Islands Sea Kayaking Belize Sea Kayaking
CRETE, GREECE: Inn-to-Inn Sea Kayaking
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Crete Inn to Inn Sea Kayaking trips with The Northwest Passage


Spend your days on the crystal-blue Libyan Sea
and
your nights in the comfort of small seaside inns. Enjoy a world-class sea kayaking trip amid magnificent mountains and Minoan ruins. The friendly, hospitable small towns of Crete's southern coast, and warm, sparkling seas invite you to explore. No Experience Necessary!

View Photos

- Activities: Sea Kayaking & Hiking
- Accommodations:
Family-owned Inns
- Van Supported:
Yes
- From
: Heraklion, Crete
- 2007 Price: $2,695.00
- Factsheet -
-
TRIP DATES (2007) DURATION STATUS
May 11-18 (Friday-Friday) *Women Only 8 days, 7 nights COMPLETED
May 11-18 (Friday-Friday) *Yoga 8 days, 7 nights COMPLETED
May 19-26 (Saturday-Saturday) 8 days, 7nights COMPLETED
May 27-June 3 (Sunday-Sunday) 8 days, 7 nights COMPLETED
June 4-11 (Monday-Monday) 8 days, 7 nights COMPLETED
June 15-22 (Friday-Friday) 8 days, 7 nights COMPLETED
September 7-14 (Friday-Friday) 8 days, 7 nights OPEN
September 15-22 (Saturday-Saturday) 8 days, 7nights OPEN
September 23-30 (Sunday-Sunday) 8 days, 7 nights OPEN
October 1-8 (Monday-Monday) *Yoga 8 days, 7 nights OPEN

Registration Forms Here!

Trip Reviews - Factsheet - Planning - Itinerary - Questions - History - Top of Page

CRETE, GREECE - Planning a Trip to Crete

Whether you have already signed up for a Cretan adventure, or are considering joining a tour, kayakcrete.com is here to help get you started on your journey today!

There are always a number of different concerns that come to mind when preparing for an international adventure, so The Northwest Passage has designed this website to help you find some answers. You will notice that most of the information we provide is directly related to the questions commonly asked by our participants. If you have a burning question about Crete that you can't find the answer to on this site, give us a call and we'll find the answer!

An Introduction to Crete

Crete is much more than just another Greek island. Much of the time, especially in the cities or along the northern coast, it doesn't feel like an island at all, but a substantial land in its own right. Which of course it is -- a mountainous, wealthy and at times surprisingly cosmopolitan one with a tremendous and unique history. There are two big cities, Heraklion (sometimes spelled Iraklion) and Hania, a host of sizable, historic towns, and an island culture which is uniquely Cretan: the Turks were in occupation less than 100 years ago, and the Greek flag raised for the first time in 1913.

In Crete's less known coastal reaches of the south it's still possible to find yourself alone, this makes it a very attractive location to visit and explore whether on an adventure tour or a lazy holiday. We suggest Adventure!

Why Travel with The Northwest Passage?
We have committed ourselves to providing the most experienced and professional guides for every program we develop. It is through this philosophy that we have created and nurtured one of the best all-around adventure tours in the world. Our Kayak Crete programs are especially designed to teach new skills and provide new experiences that will lead to new understanding, knowledge, confidence and FUN! We believe that everyone is capable of reaching ultimate personal goals while on our adventures and we base our level of success on your personal accomplishments.

Our relationship with the locals in Crete is something that we hold very dear. Throughout our years of adventure we have come not only to love the natural beauty and history of this amazing place, but more

importantly to us we have made friends for life -- an experience in Crete with The Northwest Passage is as unique as the island itself. Whether we're exploring sea caves or just "spinning you fun-meters", we love nothing more than to share with you our most cherished treasure.

Please take a look through this website for more useful information on Crete -- whether you plan to join us on a tour or not. And if there is something you can't seem to find on the site please feel free to give us a call and we will do our best to answer your questions.

-Efharisto Poli (thank you very much)


CRETE, GREECE - trip itinerary (traditional)

Day 1: The trip officially begins in the morning at the Heraklion airport where our guides will meet you. Exact meeting time will be determined once flight schedules from Athens to Heraklion have been finalized. From the airport, we will head to Knossos, the famous Minoan palace just outside Heraklion. We will have a tour of Knossos, then shuttle down to Matala on the south coast. There are many options for lunch tavernas in Matala. We'll get together to enjoy the incredible sunset, have a drink and begin to get to know one another. We will review the itinerary for the week and answer whatever questions you may have.
Day 2: After breakfast, we will outfit everyone with paddle, PFD and sprayskirt, then head across the street to the beach where we will offer basic kayaking instruction. The protected bay in Matala provides us with a perfect spot for instruction, surrounded by the famous caves (legendary homes to Joni Mitchell, Cat Stevens, Bob Dylan and others in the 60's). We will then paddle to 2 neighboring beaches, the Red Beach and Kommos Beach. After enjoying lunch and visiting the ruins at Kommos, we will return to Matala. You'll have some free time, followed by an optional sunset hike. We'll end the day with a great meal (as always) and a chance to experience the rousing night life of Matala. Photo: overlooking Matala Bay.
Day 3: We'll get an early start today in order to stop and visit the ruins of the Minoan Palace of Festos on our way to the trail head for the Samarian Gorge. We trade our paddles and swim wear for hiking boots and walking sticks (critical item of equipment!). The Samarian Gorge is a "must see" for every visitor to Crete and this incredible national park draws 1,000-2,000 visitors per day. We have designed our itinerary to be able to experience the Gorge after the vast majority of hikers have already headed down. Most visitors to the Gorge have to catch the ferry at the end of the Gorge. We, however, spend the night in Agia Roumeli, the town where the Gorge ends. We'll celebrate our accomplishments with a wonderful dinner right at our hotel.
Day 4: We will depart from Roumeli in our kayaks, heading along the coastline to Agios Pavlos for our cappuccino stop. The small 11th Century chapel built in honor of St. Paul is a remarkable site and traditionally wonderful photo opportunity. From Agios Pavlos, we'll continue along the coastline to Marmara Beach, one of our prettiest lunch stops. We then paddle to the water-access-only town of Loutro. Rounding the point to catch your first glimpse of this idyllic town has been a highlight of the trip for all past participants. We won't ruin the moment by saying any more now- you'll just have to see for yourself! Photo: Agios Pavlos
Day 5: We will be spending two nights in Loutro, allowing for a day with multiple options. From Loutro, we may continue up the coastline to Sweetwater Beach where the freshwater springs bubbling out of the sand provide a unique experience. After stretching our legs, enjoying a refreshing swim and cup of cappuccino, we can paddle on to Hora Sfakia for our lunch stop. We paddle back to Loutro leaving us with some free time in the afternoon and a chance to relax before our sunset hike.
Day 6: You will have an option today to paddle to Hora Sfakia or hike the trail which follows the coastline. We will then continue paddling or shuttle by van along the coast to the Venetian fortress at Frangokastello for a brief tour. We continue paddling or shuttling to a put in spot at one of our favorite tavernas following our lunch break. From there, we will paddle into the bay at Ammoudi. We'll have a chance to explore Plakias that evening- some great shopping opportunities as well as one of our favorite bakeries on the island (the "Cretan Specialty" is another highlight of the trip!). Dinner is on your own tonight to give you a choice of the numerous restaurant possibilities in town as well as a chance to set your own schedule for the evening. Photo: fortress at Frangokastello
ooo
Day 7: Heading out from Ammoudi Bay, our next stop is Palm Beach, an idyllic setting crowded with tourists by mid-day. We always manage to arrive before the crowds, giving us an opportunity to enjoy the beauty of our semi-private beach. An optional paddle up the inland fresh water creek provides some varied scenery. Our lunch stop today is near Trio Petra beach. After lunch, we will paddle on to the beach at Agios Pavlos. At this point, you can opt to shuttle the last section or paddle the final 7-mile stretch (making total mileage for the day 18!). We will celebrate with a final dinner overlooking the harbor at Agia Galini.
Day 8: Those wishing to complete the paddling circle can launch early in the morning from Agia Galini and paddle across the bay into Matala (approximately 8 miles in an open water crossing). Others will van to Matala where we will have a brief stop to pick up any luggage you may have chosen to leave at the hotel, unload boats and do any last minute shopping. The van will depart for Heraklion between 11 a.m. and noon, giving time for a visit to the renowned Heraklion Archaeological Museum before catching late afternoon flights back to Athens. Photo: Kayaking on the Libyan Sea


CRETE, GREECE - common questions

What makes this trip so special?
Answer:
Incredible coastline, spectacular sunsets, the friendliest innkeepers and taverna owners you'll ever meet, warm waters in tremendously varied shades of blue and green, amazing sea caves, cliff jumping for all levels of risk-takers, never-ending sunshine, phenomenal food, an opportunity to see the Crete that few tourists see. Rick Sweitzer, Executive Director of The Northwest Passage, fell in love with Crete in the late 60's and has been exploring the backroads and coastline of this incredible island ever since. The Northwest Passage has been touring Crete by kayak, bicycle and foot for many years and in the process, we have developed great friendships with our local hosts. You'll feel like part of the family as we share with you our most popular international trip.
How do I get to Heraklion from North America?
Answer:
Our adventure begins in Heraklion, the capital of Crete. To reach Heraklion, most participants fly into Athens. From there, you have a choice of flying to Heraklion (a one hour flight offered by several carriers including Aegean and Olympic Air or taking an overnight ferry. If you choose to fly, most U.S. travel agents can book Olympic Air but are not familiar with Aegean. You can book flights online for either Olympic (www.olympic-airways.gr) or Aegean (www.aegeanair.com). You can also make reservations through Pacific Travel (www.pacifictravel.gr or info@pacifictravel.gr) We have been working with Pacific Travel for many years and they are quite helpful. They have an office at the Athens Airport that is staffed 24 hours a day. There is also a website at www.cretetravel.com which is quite helpful. You can also call our office to get more details regarding the travel options. It is important to confirm your return flights, both the flight to Athens and the flight from Athens to the US, 48-72 hours prior to the flight.

If you choose to take the ferry, you can purchase tickets right at the port or in advance through a travel agent. The port (Piraeus) can be reached by taxi or bus from the airport. The cost for the ferry will vary depending on level of accommodation (private cabin with bath, semi-private, etc). Most of the ticket agents at the port will take credit cards.
What papers do I need for travel to Greece?
Answer:
All US citizens require a valid passport to enter Greece. A visa is not required for citizens of the United States, Canada, and the European Union. If you are a citizen of another country, please check with your nearest Greek embassy for visa requirements.
Do I need to get any shots before traveling to Greece?
Answer:
No inoculations are required when entering or leaving Greece.
How and where will you meet me?
Answer:
We will ask for a copy of your travel itinerary prior to your departure. We will meet the morning of the first day of the trip at the Heraklion Airport, or otherwise by arrangement. Exact meeting time will be determined once flight schedules from Athens to Heraklion are finalized for that season. We have found over the years that the schedules vary somewhat year to year. The airport is quite small and we will be wearing Northwest Passage shirts and carrying an NWP sign. We will meet in the arrivals area of the Heraklion airport.
How long will it take me to get there?
Answer:
The flight to Athens is usually an overnight flight, leaving the U.S. in the late afternoon and arriving mid-day to late afternoon in Athens. Depending on the carrier and connection, you may overnight in another city en-route. There are flights out of Athens to Heraklion starting at 6 a.m. and continuing throughout the day and evening until 11:45 p.m.

Returning from Athens, most flights back to the U.S. are in the early morning, requiring an overnight in Athens the last day of the trip. Generally, participants will book flights out of Heraklion late afternoon on the last day. If you want to visit the Archaelogical Museum in Heraklion, you should not book a flight before 4:00 p.m. on the last day of the trip.
Where should I stay overnight in Athens or Heraklion?
Answer:
There are many hotel options in Athens in varying price ranges. The Plaka area of Athens (near the Acropolis, etc.) is the most popular area and not too far from the airport (45+ min. cab ride depending on traffic; buses are also an option). Please feel free to check out our Hotels section of the website or contact our office for hotel suggestions.

If you choose to overnight in Heraklion
either at the beginning or the end of the trip, there are hotel options downtown as well as just outside of town, again in varying price ranges. We can give you suggestions based on your preferences and budget.

What is the exchange rate in Greece? Where can I exchange?
Answer:
The Drachma was the Greek currency. However, Greece converted to the Euro in January, 2002. For the most current exchange rate, there are several helpful websites. Oanda (www.oanda.com) will give you a handy conversion cheat sheet to take with you. You can exchange money at the airport (either Athens or Heraklion). Exchange rates at the airport may not be the most favorable and they often have higher commission rates and/or minimum commissions. There are ATM's at the airports which can be handy as there is not a commission, just the ATM service charge. There are also ATM's in Matala, Plakias and Agia Galini. Some of the hotels where we stay will also exchange. Some shops do exchange money but their rates are often high.
How much money should I take? What will I spend money on? How much is a typical meal? Drinks? Souvenirs?
Answer:
The trip fee covers most of your costs. The only things you will be responsible for are lunches, drinks, one dinner, personal purchases, and gratuities. Lunches generally range 5-10 Euro. Dinner ranges 10-20 Euro. Personal purchases again vary- one can buy unique souvenirs made of olive wood for 5 Euro or get fine jewelry for significantly more… it's up to you.
When in town, who do I tip? How much?
Answer:
Tipping is optional and not expected in the same way it is in the U.S. However, it is most appreciated and 10 % is typical.
Do they take plastic in Crete?
Answer:
There is a Cash Station at the Heraklion Airport. There are also ATM's in Matala where we spend the first two nights and again in Plakias and Agia Galini. Many of the more upscale shops will take credit cards. You can sometimes negotiate a better price on goods if you pay cash. Many smaller shops do not accept credit cards.
What are the accommodations like?
Answer:
We choose the nicest inns/hotels in each of the towns where we stay. That said, we are avoiding the major touristy towns of Crete so options are somewhat limited. All of the hotels are clean and rooms have private baths. Bathtubs are a rarity in Crete but all rooms have showers.

 

Can I plug in my hair dryer? What about my electric razor?
Answer:
If you bring any items requiring electricity, be sure to bring both a converter and adapter plugs. These can be purchased at Radio Shack®, other electronics stores, travel stores etc. Let the salesperson know you are traveling to Greece and they can help you select the appropriate converter and adapter plugs for your equipment. Note that hair dryers, irons, and any other heat producing devices require a stronger converter than other devices. It is helpful to know the wattage of your particular equipment when purchasing the appropriate converter.
Can I drink the water?
Answer:
The water is safe to drink in all the areas we visit except the town of Loutro. In Loutro, the water will not make you ill but has a salty taste. However, bottled water is readily available everywhere and quite inexpensive so most folks choose to drink bottled water.
What's the food like?
Answer:
Breakfast generally consists of fresh Greek yogurt with honey, bread, cheese, juice, coffee or tea, with eggs as an occasional option. Lunches and dinners are ordered off the menu which typically consists of Greek specialties such as moussaka, pastitsio, grilled meats and fish, spaghetti (doesn't sound Greek but very popular), stifada (generally beef stew), etc. Selections for vegetarians are more limited but previous vegetarian clients have not gone hungry, enjoying dolmades (grape leaves), eggplant, zucchini, tzatzki (yogurt/cucumber/garlic dip), saganaki (fried feta), Greek salads etc.
What time zone will we be in?
Answer:
Greece is two hours ahead of Greenwich Time, which makes it 7 hours ahead of US Eastern Time, 8 hours ahead of Central Time, 10 hours ahead of Pacific Time.
How can people reach me in an emergency? Can I call home?
Answer:
We will provide you with a list of our hotels including phone and fax numbers. You should also provide family/friends with The Northwest Passage number (800-RECREATE, 732-7328) as NWP staff will always be notified of any changes in the itinerary. You can call home using a calling card. Many of the hotels will have phones in the rooms. Keep in mind the time difference listed above. It can be helpful to remind family and friends about this also. MCI access code for calls from Crete is 00-800-1211. AT&T access code is 00-800-1311, Sprint access code is 00-800-1411.
How can I prepare physically for the trip? How much prior experience is needed?
Answer:
We have had participants on this trip who have never been in a kayak before and others who have been paddling for years. We have found that all levels of kayakers have enjoyed this adventure. A good level of personal fitness makes the journey more enjoyable. For kayaking, upper body exercises that strengthen your shoulders, back and arms are recommended. Strengthening exercises with free weights can be very beneficial. Upper body stretches and exercises such as rowing are also useful. Keep in mind that we have had folks at all different levels of physical conditioning thoroughly enjoy this trip and the van is always an option! It is extremely important that you know how to swim and are comfortable in the water. Please don't hesitate to contact our office if you have any questions or concerns about your physical capabilities for this trip.
How much time do we spend kayaking each day?
Answer:
We will generally kayak 5-6 hours per day. The paddling is broken into multiple sections with plenty of time to explore the coastline, paddle in and out of sea caves and jump in and out of the water to cool off. We generally begin paddling at 8:30 each morning, then take a cappuccino break at a seaside taverna after an hour or so. We stop again for lunch after another hour or so and generally reach our next hotel between 3:30 and 4:30 in the afternoon.

Distance traveled varies each day, ranging from 6-24 miles. Once we reach our destination, you will have some free time to shower, relax, and/or explore the town. We will generally offer some additional skill training for folks who are interested at the end of the day. Some participants have wanted to work on Eskimo rolling, paddling techniques, etc.

Each day, the van will be following our route,
meeting us at the cappuccino stops and lunch stops, offering multiple options. You can paddle to the cappuccino break, then hop in the van to the lunch stop, then paddle again in the afternoon. Or start with a van ride and paddle later in the day. The choices are endless!
What kind of equipment do you use?
Answer:
We have a combination of hard shell plastic doubles, singles and folding doubles. Some participants prefer to paddle in the doubles the whole time (paddling is a bit easier with two people powering the boat and the doubles tend to be more stable) and some prefer to trade on and off with the singles. We will provide kayaks, paddles, spray skirts and PFD's (personal flotation devices) for all participants. If you prefer to bring your own paddle and/or PFD, you are most welcome to. Please let us know in advance so that we can pack the appropriate gear, especially if you have a particular need or unusual size.
How many people are on this trip? How many guides?
Answer:
Our group sizes for this trip range from 6 to 16 participants. We generally have two guides on the water and one or two additional staff members as van drivers. One of our van drivers is George, a local Cretan with a wealth of knowledge about and love for his native land. Your other guides will be knowledgeable Northwest Passage staff members who are highly skilled in all aspects of sea kayaking and wilderness travel and have years of experience leading groups. They all have training and/or certification in Wilderness First Aid.


CRETE, GREECE - the historical framework

The discovery of the Minoan civilization has tended to overshadow every other aspect of Cretan history. And indeed it would be hard for any other period to rival what was, in effect, the first truly European civilization. It was in Crete that the developed societies of the east met influences of the west and north, and here that "Western culture", as synthesized in Classical Greece and Rome, first developed.

Yet this was no accident: Crete's position as a meeting place of east and west, and its strategic setting in the middle of the Mediterranean, has thrust the island to the centre stage of world history more often than seems comfortable. Long before Arthur Evans arrived to unearth Knossos, and for some time after, the island's struggle for freedom, and the great powers' inactivity, was the subject of Europe-wide scandal. The battle for the island when the Turks arrived had similarly aroused world-wide interest, and represented at the time a significant change in the balance of power between Islam and Christianity. In fact, from Minoan times to World War II, there has rarely been a sustained period when Crete didn't have some role to play in world affairs

The Stone Age:


Crete's first inhabitants, Neolithic cave dwellers, apparently reached the island around 7000 BC. They came, most probably, from Asia Minor, or less likely from Syria, Palestine or North Africa, bringing with them the basics of Stone Age culture -- tools of wood, stone and bone, crude pottery and simple cloth. A possible clue to the orgins of these people may lie in the importance of bull cults at certain centres of Neolithic Anatolia.

Development of the next three thousand years was almost imperceptibly slow, but gradually, whether through new migrations and influences or internal dynamics, advances were made. Elementary agriculture was practiced, with domestic animals and basic crops. Pottery (the oldest samples of which were found beneath the palace of Knossos) became more sophisticated, with better made utensils and clay figurines of humans, animals and, especially, a fat mother goddess or fertility figure. Obsidian imported from the island of Milos was used too. And though caves continued to be inhabited, simple rectangular huts of mud bricks were also built, with increasing skill and complexity as the era wore on. One of the most important of the Neolithic settlements was at Knossos, where two remarkable dwellings have been revealed below the Central Court, and there is abundant evidence that many other sites of later habitation were used at this time -- Malia, Festos, Ayia Triadha, the Hania area -- as were most of the caves which later came to assume religious significance.


The Bronze Age:

Minoan Crete
has been the subject of intense and constant study since its emergence from myth to archeological reality at the beginning of the twentieth century. Yet there is still enormous controversy even over such fundamental details as who the Minoans were and what language they spoke. No written historical records from the time survive (or if they do, they have yet to be deciphered) so almost everything we know is deduced from physical remains, fleshed out somewhat by writings from Classical Greece, almost one thousand years after the destruction of Knossos. Nevertheless it is not hard to forge some kind of censensus from the theories about the Minoans, and this is what is set out below: fresh discoveries may yet radically change this view.

Pre-Palatial: 3000-1900 BC

Among the more important puzzles of Minoan society is its comparatively sudden emergence. During the centuries before 2600 BC, there were important changes on the island, and thereafter very rapid progress in almost every area of life. Villages and towns grew up where previously there had been only isolated settlements, and with them came craft specialists: potters, stone cutters, metal workers, jewellers and weavers. Many of these new settlements were in the east and south of the island, and there was significant habitation on the coast and near natural harbours for the first time.

It seems safe to assume that these changes were wrought by a new migration of people from the east, bringing with them new technologies, methods of agriculture and styles of pottery, but most importantly perhaps, a knowledge of seafaring and trade. The olive and the vine -- which need little tending and therefore help free a labour force -- began to be produced alongside cereal crops. Copper tools replaced stone ones and were themselves later refined with the introduction of bronze. Art developed rapidly, with characteristic Vasiliki ware and other pottery styles, as well as gold jewelry, and stone jars of exceptional quality, based originally on Egyptian styles. Significantly, large quantities of seal stones have been found too, almost certainly the mark of mercantile people. They were used to sign letters and documents, but especially to seal packets, boxes or doors as proof that they had not been opened: the designs -- scorpions or poisonous spiders -- were often meant as a further deterrent to robbery.

At the same time, new methods of burial appeared -- tholos and chamber tombs in which riches were buried with the dead. These appear to have been communal, as, probably, was daily life, based perhaps on clan or kinship groupings.

The First Palaces: 1900-1700 BC

Shortly before 1900 BC, the first of the palaces were built, at Knossos, Festos, Malia and Zakros. They represent another significant and apparently abrupt change: a shift of power back to the centre of the island and the emergence of a much more heirarchical, ordered society. The sites of these palaces were also no accident: Festos and Malia both dominate fertile plains, whilst Zakros had a superbly sited harbour for trade with the east. Knossos, occupying a strategic position above another plain to the south and west of Iraklion, was perhaps as much a religious centre as a base of secular power. Certainly religion at this point took on new importance, with the wide-spread use of mountain top sanctuaries and caves as cult centres. At the same time, much larger towns were growing up, especially around the palaces, and in the countryside substantial "villas" appeared.

The palaces themselves are proof of the island's great prosperity at this period, and the artifacts found within offer further evidence. Advances were made in almost every field of artistic and craft endeavor. From the First Palace era came the famous Kamarea ware pottery -- actually two distinct styles, one eggshell-thin and delicate, the other sturdier with bold-coloured designs. The true potter's wheel (as against the turntable) was introduced for the first time, along with a simple form of hieroglyphic writing. Elaborate jewelry, seals and bronzework were also being produced.

Cretan bronze was used throughout the Mediterranean, and its production and distribution were dependent on wide-ranging maritime economy. Though Crete may have produced some copper at this time, it never yielded tin, the nearest significant sources of which were as distant as Iran to the east, central Europe in the north, Italy, Spain, Brittany, and even Britain in the west. While some claim that Minoan ships actually sailed as far as the Atlantic, it seems more likely that the more exotic goods were obtained through middlemen. Nevertheless, Crete controlled the trade routes in the Mediterranean, importing tin, copper, pottery, gold, silver, and precious stones of every kind, exporting timber from its rich cypress forests, olive oil, wine, bronze goods, and fine pottery, especially to Egypt. Minoan colonies and trading posts were established on many Cycladic islands as well as the island of Kithira off the Peloponnese, Rhodes and the coast of Asia Minor; a fleet of merchant vessels maintained regular trade links between these centres, and, above all, with Egypt and the east.

Around 1700 BC, the palaces were destroyed for the first time, probably by earthquake, although raiders from the early Mycenaean Greek mainland may also have seized this opportunity to raid the island while it was temporarily defenceless; this may well account for the wealth of gold and other treasure -- much of it obviously Cretan -- found in the later royal shaft graves at Mycenae.

The New Palaces: 1700 - 1450 BC

Though the destruction must have been a setback, Minoan culture continued to flourish, and with the palaces reconstructed on a still grander scale, the society entered its golden age. It is the new palaces that provide us with most of our picture of Minoan life and most of what is seen at the great sites -- Knossos, Festos, Malia, Zakros -- dates from this period.

The architecture of the new palaces was of an unprecedented sophistication: complex, multistory structures in which the use of space and light was as luxurious as the construction materials. Grand stairways, colonnaded porticoes and courtyards, brightly frescoed walls, elaborate plumbing and drainage, and great magazines in which to store the society's accumulation of wealth, were all integral, as were workshops for the technicians and craftsmen. and areas set aside for ritual and worship.


Obviously it was only the elite who enjoyed these comforts, but conditions for the ordinary people who kept Minos and attendants in such style appear to have improved too: towns around the palaces and at sites such as Gournia and Palekastro werre growing as well. (It was Arthur Evans who named Minoan society after the legendary King Minos, but there is little doubt that Minos was in fact the title of a dynasty of priest/kings, a word rather than pharaoh.)

Very little is known of how the society was organized, or indeed whether it was a single entity ruled from Knossos or simply several city-states with a common cultural heritage. However, in an intriguing reference to Crete in his politics, Aristotle implied that a caste system had operated in the time of Minos. Clearly, though, it was a society in which religion played an important part. The great Corridor of the Procession fresco at Knossos depicted an annual delivery of tribute, apparently to a Mother Goddess; bull-leaping had a religious significance too; and in all the palaces substantial chambers were set aside for ritual purposes. Secular leaders were also religious leaders.

That Minoan society was a very open one was apparent too. There are virtually no defenses, internal or external, at any Minoan site, and apparently the rulers felt no threat either from within or without, which has led scholars to emphasise a military strength based on seapower. As far as internal dissent goes, it seems safe to assume that the wealth of the island filtered down, to some extent at least, to all its inhabitants: the lot of a Minoan peasant may have been little different from that of a Cretan villager as little as fifty years ago.


Externally, maritime supremacy was further extended: objects of Cretan manufacture turn up all over the Mediterranean and have even been claimed as far afield as Britain and Scandinavia (amber from the Baltic certainly found its way to Crete). Behind their seapower, the Minoans clearly felt safe, and the threat of attack or piracy was further reduced by the network of colonies or close allies throughout the Cycladic islands -- Thira most famously but also at Milos, Naxos, Paros, Mikonos, Andhros, and Dilos -- and in Rhodes, Cyprus, Syria and North Africa. Nevertheless, this appears to have remained a trading empire rather than a military one.

Cultural Advances

If the New Palaces period was a high point of Minoan power, it also marked the apogee of arts and crafts in the island; again, the bulk of the objects you'll admire in the museums dates from this era. The frescoes -- startling in their freshness and vitality -- are the most famous and obviously visable