| CRETE,
GREECE: Family Adventure Inn-to-Inn
Sea Kayaking
|  Heraklion,
Crete: Weather |
 | 
Spend your days on the crystal-blue Libyan Sea
and your
nights in the comfort of small seaside inns. Enjoy a world-class sea kayaking
trip amid magnificent mountains and Minoan ruins. The friendly, hospitable small
towns of Crete's southern coast, and warm, sparkling seas invite you to explore.
No Experience Necessary!
Daily
Itinerary |
-
Activities:
Sea Kayaking & Hiking
- Accommodations: Family-owned
Inns
- Van Supported: Yes
- From:
Heraklion, Crete
-
2008 Price: $2,695.00 USD,
Children under the age of 16: $1,595.00 USD
- Ages: 7 and up
| TRIP
DATES (2008) |
Duration | STATUS |
|
June 21-28 (Saturday-Saturday) |
8
days, 7 nights |
OPEN |
-
Registration
Forms Here!
-
Fact Sheet
- Planning
- Itinerary - Questions
- History - Top
of Page
| CRETE,
GREECE - Planning
a Trip to Crete | |
Whether
you have already signed up for a Cretan adventure, or are considering joining
a tour, kayakcrete.com is here to help get you started on your journey today!
There are always a number of different concerns that come to mind when preparing
for an international adventure, so The Northwest Passage has designed this website
to help you find some answers. You will notice that most of the information we
provide is directly related to the questions commonly asked by our participants.
If you have a burning question about Crete that you can't find the answer to on
this site, give us a call and we'll find the answer! | .jpg) |
| An
Introduction to Crete | |
Crete is much more
than just another Greek island. Much of the time, especially in the cities or
along the northern coast, it doesn't feel like an island at all, but a substantial
land in its own right. Which of course it is -- a mountainous, wealthy and at
times surprisingly cosmopolitan one with a tremendous and unique history. There
are two big cities, Heraklion (sometimes spelled Iraklion) and Hania, a host of
sizable, historic towns, and an island culture which is uniquely Cretan: the Turks
were in occupation less than 100 years ago, and the Greek flag raised for the
first time in 1913. In
Crete's less known coastal reaches of the south it's still possible to find yourself
alone, this makes it a very attractive location to visit and explore whether on
an adventure tour or a lazy holiday. We suggest Adventure! | .jpg) |
| Why
Travel with The Northwest Passage? |
We
have committed ourselves to providing the most experienced and professional guides
for every program we develop. It is through this philosophy that we have created
and nurtured one of the best all-around adventure tours in the world. Our Kayak
Crete programs are especially designed to teach new skills and provide new experiences
that will lead to new understanding, knowledge, confidence and FUN! We believe
that everyone is capable of reaching ultimate personal goals while on our adventures
and we base our level of success on your personal accomplishments. Our
relationship with the locals in Crete is something that we hold very dear. Throughout
our years of adventure we have come not only to love the natural beauty and history
of this amazing place, but more | .jpg) |
|
importantly
to us we have made friends for life -- an experience in Crete with The Northwest
Passage is as unique as the island itself. Whether we're exploring sea caves or
just "spinning you fun-meters", we love nothing more than to share with
you our most cherished treasure. Please take a look through this website
for more useful information on Crete -- whether you plan to join us on a tour
or not. And if there is something you can't seem to find on the site please feel
free to give us a call and we will do our best to answer your questions. -Efharisto
Poli (thank you very much)
| CRETE,
GREECE - trip itinerary (traditional)
Day 1: The trip officially begins in the morning at the Heraklion airport
where our guides will meet you. Exact meeting time will be determined once flight
schedules from Athens to Heraklion have been finalized. From the airport, we will
head to Knossos, the famous Minoan palace just outside Heraklion. We will
have a tour of Knossos, then shuttle down to Matala on the south coast.
There are many options for lunch tavernas in Matala. We'll get together to enjoy
the incredible sunset, have a beverage and begin to get to know one another. We
will review the itinerary for the week and answer whatever questions you
may have. |
Day 2: After breakfast,
we will outfit everyone with paddle, PFD and sprayskirt, then head across
the street to the beach where we will offer basic kayaking instruction. The protected
bay in Matala provides us with a perfect spot for instruction, surrounded by the
famous caves (legendary homes to Joni Mitchell, Cat Stevens, Bob Dylan and others
in the 60's). We will then paddle to 2 neighboring beaches, the Red Beach and
Kommos Beach. After enjoying lunch and visiting the ruins at Kommos, we will
return to Matala. You'll have some free time, followed by an optional sunset hike.
We'll end the day with a great meal (as always). Photo:
overlooking Matala Bay. | .jpg) |
Day
3: We'll get an early start today in order to stop and visit the ruins of
the Minoan Palace of Festos on our way to the trail head for the Samarian Gorge.
We trade our paddles and swim wear for hiking boots and walking sticks (critical
item of equipment!). The Samarian Gorge is a "must see" for every visitor
to Crete and this incredible national park draws 1,000-2,000 visitors per day.
We have designed our itinerary to be able to experience the Gorge after the vast
majority of hikers have already headed down. Most visitors to the Gorge have to
catch the ferry at the end of the Gorge. We, however, spend the night in Agia
Roumeli, the town where the Gorge ends. We'll celebrate our accomplishments with
a wonderful dinner right at our hotel. |
Day
4: We will depart from Roumeli in our kayaks, heading along the coastline
to Agios Pavlos for our soft drink/cappuccino stop. The small 11th Century
chapel built in honor of St. Paul is a remarkable site and traditionally wonderful
photo opportunity. From Agios Pavlos, we'll continue along the coastline to Marmara
Beach, one of our prettiest lunch stops. We then paddle to the water-access-only
town of Loutro. Rounding the point to catch your first glimpse of this idyllic
town has been a highlight of the trip for all past participants. We won't ruin
the moment by saying any more now- you'll just have to see for yourself! Photo:
Agios Pavlos | .jpg) |
| Day
5: We will be spending two nights in Loutro, allowing for a day with multiple
options. From Loutro, we may continue up the coastline to Sweetwater Beach
where the freshwater springs bubbling out of the sand provide a unique experience.
After stretching our legs, enjoying a refreshing swim and cool drink, we can paddle
on to Hora Sfakia for our lunch stop. We paddle back to Loutro leaving
us with some free time in the afternoon and a chance to relax before our sunset
hike. | Day
6: You will have an option today to paddle to Hora Sfakia or hike the
trail which follows the coastline. We will then continue paddling or shuttle by
van along the coast to the Venetian fortress at Frangokastello for a brief
tour. We continue paddling or shuttling to a put in spot at one of our favorite
tavernas following our lunch break. From there, we will paddle into the bay at
Ammoudi. We'll have a chance to explore Plakias that evening- some great
shopping opportunities as well as one of our favorite bakeries on the island
(the "Cretan Specialty" is another highlight of the trip!). Dinner is
on your own tonight to give you a choice of the numerous restaurant possibilities
in town as well as a chance to set your own schedule for the evening. Photo:
fortress at Frangokastello ooo | .jpg) |
Day
7: Heading out from Ammoudi Bay, our next stop is Palm Beach, an idyllic setting
crowded with tourists by mid-day. We always manage to arrive before the crowds,
giving us an opportunity to enjoy the beauty of our semi-private beach. An optional
paddle up the inland fresh water creek provides some varied scenery. Our lunch
stop today is near Trio Petra beach. After lunch, we will paddle on to the beach
at Agios Pavlos. At this point, you can opt to shuttle the last section or paddle
the final 7-mile stretch. We will celebrate with a final dinner overlooking the
harbor at Agia Galini. | |
Day 8: Those wishing to
complete the paddling circle can launch early in the morning from Agia Galini
and paddle across the bay into Matala (approximately 8 miles in an open water
crossing). Others will van to Matala where we will have a brief stop to pick up
any luggage you may have chosen to leave at the hotel, unload boats and do any
last minute shopping. The van will depart for Heraklion between 11 a.m. and noon,
giving time for a visit to the renowned Heraklion Archaeological Museum before
catching late afternoon flights back to Athens. Photo: Kayaking on the Libyan
Sea | .jpg) |
|
CRETE, GREECE - common questions
| What
makes this trip so special? |
Incredible coastline,
spectacular sunsets, the friendliest innkeepers and taverna owners you'll
ever meet, warm waters in tremendously varied shades of blue and green, amazing
sea caves, cliff jumping for all levels of risk-takers, never-ending sunshine,
phenomenal food, an opportunity to see the Crete that few tourists see. Rick Sweitzer,
Executive Director of The Northwest Passage, fell in love with Crete in the late
60's and has been exploring the backroads and coastline of this incredible island
ever since. The Northwest Passage has been touring Crete by kayak, bicycle and
foot for many years and in the process, we have developed great friendships
with our local hosts. You'll feel like part of the family as we share with
you our most popular international trip. | .jpg) |
| How
do I get to Heraklion from North America? |
Our adventure begins
in Heraklion, the capital of Crete. To reach Heraklion, most participants
fly into Athens. From there, you have a choice of flying to Heraklion (a
one hour flight offered by several carriers including Aegean and Olympic Air
or taking an overnight ferry. If you choose to fly, most U.S. travel agents
can book Olympic Air but are not familiar with Aegean. You can book flights online
for either Olympic (www.olympic-airways.gr)
or Aegean (www.aegeanair.com). You can
also make reservations through Pacific Travel (www.pacifictravel.gr
or info@pacifictravel.gr) We have been
working with Pacific Travel for many years and they are quite helpful. They have
an office at the Athens Airport that is staffed 24 hours a day. There is also
a website at www.cretetravel.com which is quite helpful. You can also call our
office to get more details regarding the travel options. It is important to confirm
your return flights, both the flight to Athens and the flight from Athens to the
US, 48-72 hours prior to the flight. If you choose to take the
ferry, you can purchase tickets right at the port or in advance through a travel
agent. The port (Piraeus) can be reached by taxi or bus from the airport. The
cost for the ferry will vary depending on level of accommodation (private cabin
with bath, semi-private, etc). Most of the ticket agents at the port will take
credit cards. | | What
papers do I need for travel to Greece? |
All US citizens require
a valid passport to enter Greece. A visa is not required for citizens
of the United States, Canada, and the European Union. If you are a citizen
of another country, please check with your nearest Greek embassy for
visa requirements. |
| Do
I need to get any shots before traveling to Greece? |
No inoculations
are required when entering or leaving Greece. |
| How
and where will you meet me? | |
We will ask for
a copy of your travel itinerary prior to your departure. We will meet the
morning of the first day of the trip at the Heraklion Airport, or otherwise
by arrangement. Exact meeting time will be determined once flight schedules from
Athens to Heraklion are finalized for that season. We have found over the years
that the schedules vary somewhat year to year. The airport is quite small
and we will be wearing Northwest Passage shirts and carrying an NWP sign. We will
meet in the arrivals area of the Heraklion airport. |
| How
long will it take me to get there? |
The flight to Athens
is usually an overnight flight, leaving the U.S. in the late afternoon
and arriving mid-day to late afternoon in Athens. Depending on the carrier and
connection, you may overnight in another city en-route. There are flights out
of Athens to Heraklion starting at 6 a.m. and continuing throughout the day and
evening until 11:45 p.m. Returning from Athens, most flights back to
the U.S. are in the early morning, requiring an overnight in Athens the last day
of the trip. Generally, participants will book flights out of Heraklion late afternoon
on the last day. If you want to visit the Archaelogical Museum in Heraklion, you
should not book a flight before 4:00 p.m. on the last day of the trip.
| | Where
should I stay overnight in Athens or Heraklion? |
There are many hotel
options in Athens in varying price ranges. The Plaka area of Athens (near
the Acropolis, etc.) is the most popular area and not too far from the airport
(45+ min. cab ride depending on traffic; buses are also an option). Please feel
free to check out our Hotels section of the website or contact our office
for hotel suggestions. If you choose to overnight in Heraklion either
at the beginning or the end of the trip, there are hotel options downtown as well
as just outside of town, again in varying price ranges. We can give you suggestions
based on your preferences and budget. |
| What
is the exchange rate in Greece? Where can I exchange? |
The Drachma was
the Greek currency. However, Greece converted to the Euro in January, 2002. For
the most current exchange rate, there are several helpful websites. Oanda (www.oanda.com)
will give you a handy conversion cheat sheet to take with you. You can exchange
money at the airport (either Athens or Heraklion). Exchange rates at the airport
may not be the most favorable and they often have higher commission rates
and/or minimum commissions. There are ATM's at the airports which can be handy
as there is not a commission, just the ATM service charge. There are also ATM's
in Matala, Plakias and Agia Galini. Some of the hotels where we stay will also
exchange. Some shops do exchange money but their rates are often high. |
| How
much money should I take? What will I spend money on? How much is a typical meal?
Drinks? Souvenirs? | |
The trip fee covers
most of your costs. The only things you will be responsible for are lunches,
drinks, one dinner, personal purchases, and gratuities. Lunches generally
range 5-10 Euro. Dinner ranges 10-20 Euro. Personal purchases again vary-
one can buy unique souvenirs made of olive wood for 5 Euro or get fine jewelry
for significantly more
it's up to you. |
| When
in town, who do I tip? How much? |
| Tipping is optional
and not expected in the same way it is in the U.S. However, it is most appreciated
and 10 % is typical. |
| Do
they take plastic in Crete? | |
There is a Cash Station
at the Heraklion Airport. There are also ATM's in Matala where we spend the first
two nights and again in Plakias and Agia Galini. Many of the more upscale shops
will take credit cards. You can sometimes negotiate a better price on goods if
you pay cash. Many smaller shops do not accept credit cards. |
| What
are the accommodations like? | |
We choose the nicest
inns/hotels in each of the towns where we stay. That said, we are avoiding
the major touristy towns of Crete so options are somewhat limited. All of the
hotels are clean and rooms have private baths. Bathtubs are a rarity in Crete
but all rooms have showers. |
| Can
I plug in my hair dryer? What about my electric razor? |
If you bring any
items requiring electricity, be sure to bring both a converter and adapter
plugs. These can be purchased at Radio Shack®, other electronics stores, travel
stores etc. Let the salesperson know you are traveling to Greece and they can
help you select the appropriate converter and adapter plugs for your equipment.
Note that hair dryers, irons, and any other heat producing devices require a stronger
converter than other devices. It is helpful to know the wattage of your particular
equipment when purchasing the appropriate converter. |
| Can
I drink the water? | |
The water is safe
to drink in all the areas we visit except the town of Loutro. In Loutro, the
water will not make you ill but has a salty taste. However, bottled water is
readily available everywhere and quite inexpensive so most folks choose to
drink bottled water. | | What's
the food like? | |
Breakfast generally
consists of fresh Greek yogurt with honey, bread, cheese, juice, coffee or tea,
with eggs as an occasional option. Lunches and dinners are ordered off the menu
which typically consists of Greek specialties such as moussaka, pastitsio, grilled
meats and fish, spaghetti (doesn't sound Greek but very popular), stifada (generally
beef stew), etc. Selections for vegetarians are more limited but previous vegetarian
clients have not gone hungry, enjoying dolmades (grape leaves), eggplant, zucchini,
tzatzki (yogurt/cucumber/garlic dip), saganaki (fried feta), Greek salads etc. |
| What
time zone will we be in? | |
Greece is two hours
ahead of Greenwich Time, which makes it 7 hours ahead of US Eastern Time, 8 hours
ahead of Central Time, 10 hours ahead of Pacific Time. |
| How
can people reach me in an emergency? Can I call home? |
| We will provide you
with a list of our hotels including phone and fax numbers. You should also provide
family/friends with The Northwest Passage number (800-RECREATE, 732-7328) as NWP
staff will always be notified of any changes in the itinerary. You can call home
using a calling card. Many of the hotels will have phones in the rooms. Keep in
mind the time difference listed above. It can be helpful to remind family and
friends about this also. MCI access code for calls from Crete is 00-800-1211.
AT&T access code is 00-800-1311, Sprint access code is 00-800-1411. |
| How
can I prepare physically for the trip? How much prior experience is needed? |
| We have had participants
on this trip who have never been in a kayak before and others who have been
paddling for years. We have found that all levels of kayakers have enjoyed this
adventure. A good level of personal fitness makes the journey more enjoyable.
For kayaking, upper body exercises that strengthen your shoulders, back and arms
are recommended. Strengthening exercises with free weights can be very beneficial.
Upper body stretches and exercises such as rowing are also useful. Keep in mind
that we have had folks at all different levels of physical conditioning thoroughly
enjoy this trip and the van is always an option! It is extremely important that
you know how to swim and are comfortable in the water. Please don't hesitate to
contact our office if you have any questions or concerns about your physical capabilities
for this trip. | | How
much time do we spend kayaking each day? |
We will generally
kayak 5-6 hours per day. The paddling is broken into multiple sections with
plenty of time to explore the coastline, paddle in and out of sea caves and jump
in and out of the water to cool off. We generally begin paddling at 8:30 each
morning, then take a beverage break at a seaside taverna after an hour or
so. We stop again for lunch after another hour or so and generally reach our next
hotel between 3:30 and 4:30 in the afternoon. Distance traveled
varies each day, ranging from 6-24 miles. Once we reach our destination, you
will have some free time to shower, relax, and/or explore the town. We will generally
offer some additional skill training for folks who are interested at the end of
the day. Some participants have wanted to work on Eskimo rolling, paddling techniques,
etc. Each day, the van will be following our route, meeting us
at the cappuccino stops and lunch stops, offering multiple options. You can paddle
to the cappuccino break, then hop in the van to the lunch stop, then paddle again
in the afternoon. Or start with a van ride and paddle later in the day. The
choices are endless! |
| What
kind of equipment do you use? | |
We have a combination
of hard shell plastic doubles, singles and folding doubles. Some participants
prefer to paddle in the doubles the whole time (paddling is a bit easier with
two people powering the boat and the doubles tend to be more stable) and some
prefer to trade on and off with the singles. We will provide kayaks, paddles,
spray skirts and PFD's (personal flotation devices) for all participants. If you
prefer to bring your own paddle and/or PFD, you are most welcome to. Please let
us know in advance so that we can pack the appropriate gear, especially if you
have a particular need or unusual size. |
| How
many people are on this trip? How many guides? |
| Our
group sizes for this trip range from 6 to 16 participants. We generally have
two guides on the water and one or two additional staff members as van drivers.
Your other guides will be knowledgeable Northwest Passage staff members who are
highly skilled in all aspects of sea kayaking and wilderness travel and have years
of experience leading groups. They all have training and/or certification in Wilderness
First Aid. |
|
CRETE, GREECE - the historical framework The
discovery of the Minoan civilization has tended to overshadow every other
aspect of Cretan history. And indeed it would be hard for any other period to
rival what was, in effect, the first truly European civilization. It was
in Crete that the developed societies of the east met influences of the west and
north, and here that "Western culture", as synthesized in Classical
Greece and Rome, first developed. Yet
this was no accident: Crete's position as a meeting place of east and west, and
its strategic setting in the middle of the Mediterranean, has thrust the island
to the centre stage of world history more often than seems comfortable. Long before
Arthur Evans arrived to unearth Knossos, and for some time after,
the island's struggle for freedom, and the great powers' inactivity, was the subject
of Europe-wide scandal. The battle for the island when the Turks arrived
had similarly aroused world-wide interest, and represented at the time a significant
change in the balance of power between Islam and Christianity. In fact,
from Minoan times to World War II, there has rarely been a sustained period when
Crete didn't have some role to play in world affairs
| The
Stone Age: | |
Crete's first inhabitants,
Neolithic cave dwellers, apparently reached the island around 7000 BC.
They came, most probably, from Asia Minor, or less likely from Syria,
Palestine or North Africa, bringing with them the basics of Stone Age culture
-- tools of wood, stone and bone, crude pottery and simple cloth. A possible clue
to the orgins of these people may lie in the importance of bull cults at certain
centres of Neolithic Anatolia.
Development
of the next three thousand years was almost imperceptibly slow, but gradually,
whether through new migrations and influences or internal dynamics, advances were
made. Elementary agriculture was practiced, with domestic animals and basic crops.
Pottery (the oldest samples of which were found beneath the palace of Knossos)
became more sophisticated, with better made utensils and clay figurines of humans,
animals and, especially, a fat mother goddess or fertility figure. Obsidian imported
from the island of Milos was used too. And though caves continued to be inhabited,
simple rectangular huts of mud bricks were also built, with increasing skill and
complexity as the era wore on. One of the most important of the Neolithic settlements
was at Knossos, where two remarkable dwellings have been revealed below the Central
Court, and there is abundant evidence that many other sites of later habitation
were used at this time -- Malia, Festos, Ayia Triadha, the Hania area -- as were
most of the caves which later came to assume religious significance. |
| The
Bronze Age: |
Minoan Crete has
been the subject of intense and constant study since its emergence from myth to
archeological reality at the beginning of the twentieth century. Yet there is
still enormous controversy even over such fundamental details as who the Minoans
were and what language they spoke. No written historical records from the time
survive (or if they do, they have yet to be deciphered) so almost everything we
know is deduced from physical remains, fleshed out somewhat by writings from Classical
Greece, almost one thousand years after the destruction of Knossos. Nevertheless
it is not hard to forge some kind of censensus from the theories about the Minoans,
and this is what is set out below: fresh discoveries may yet radically change
this view. |  |
| Pre-Palatial:
3000-1900 BC |
Among the more important puzzles of Minoan society is its comparatively sudden
emergence. During the centuries before 2600 BC, there were important changes
on the island, and thereafter very rapid progress in almost every area of life.
Villages and towns grew up where previously there had been only isolated settlements,
and with them came craft specialists: potters, stone cutters, metal workers, jewellers
and weavers. Many of these new settlements were in the east and south of the island,
and there was significant habitation on the coast and near natural harbours for
the first time. It
seems safe to assume that these changes were wrought by a new migration of people
from the east, bringing with them new technologies, methods of agriculture and
styles of pottery, but most importantly perhaps, a knowledge of seafaring and
trade. The olive and the vine -- which need little tending and therefore help
free a labour force -- began to be produced alongside cereal crops. Copper tools
replaced stone ones and were themselves later refined with the introduction of
bronze. Art developed rapidly, with characteristic Vasiliki ware and other pottery
styles, as well as gold jewelry, and stone jars of exceptional quality, based
originally on Egyptian styles. Significantly, large quantities of seal stones
have been found too, almost certainly the mark of mercantile people. They were
used to sign letters and documents, but especially to seal packets, boxes or doors
as proof that they had not been opened: the designs -- scorpions or poisonous
spiders -- were often meant as a further deterrent to robbery. At
the same time, new methods of burial appeared -- tholos and chamber tombs
in which riches were buried with the dead. These appear to have been communal,
as, probably, was daily life, based perhaps on clan or kinship groupings.
|
| The
First Palaces: 1900-1700 BC | Shortly
before 1900 BC, the first of the palaces were built, at Knossos, Festos,
Malia and Zakros. They represent another significant and apparently
abrupt change: a shift of power back to the centre of the island and the emergence
of a much more heirarchical, ordered society. The sites of these palaces were
also no accident: Festos and Malia both dominate fertile plains, whilst Zakros
had a superbly sited harbour for trade with the east. Knossos, occupying a strategic
position above another plain to the south and west of Iraklion, was perhaps as
much a religious centre as a base of secular power. Certainly religion at this
point took on new importance, with the wide-spread use of mountain top sanctuaries
and caves as cult centres. At the same time, much larger towns were growing up,
especially around the palaces, and in the countryside substantial "villas"
appeared. |  |
| The
palaces themselves are proof of the island's great prosperity at this period,
and the artifacts found within offer further evidence. Advances were made in almost
every field of artistic and craft endeavor. From the First Palace era came
the famous Kamarea ware pottery -- actually two distinct styles, one eggshell-thin
and delicate, the other sturdier with bold-coloured designs. The true potter's
wheel (as against the turntable) was introduced for the first time, along with
a simple form of hieroglyphic writing. Elaborate jewelry, seals and bronzework
were also being produced. Cretan
bronze was used throughout the Mediterranean, and its production and distribution
were dependent on wide-ranging maritime economy. Though Crete may have
produced some copper at this time, it never yielded tin, the nearest significant
sources of which were as distant as Iran to the east, central Europe in the north,
Italy, Spain, Brittany, and even Britain in the west. While some claim that Minoan
ships actually sailed as far as the Atlantic, it seems more likely that the more
exotic goods were obtained through middlemen. Nevertheless, Crete controlled the
trade routes in the Mediterranean, importing tin, copper, pottery, gold, silver,
and precious stones of every kind, exporting timber from its rich cypress forests,
olive oil, wine, bronze goods, and fine pottery, especially to Egypt. Minoan colonies
and trading posts were established on many Cycladic islands as well as the island
of Kithira off the Peloponnese, Rhodes and the coast of Asia Minor; a fleet of
merchant vessels maintained regular trade links between these centres, and, above
all, with Egypt and the east. Around
1700 BC, the palaces were destroyed for the first time, probably by earthquake,
although raiders from the early Mycenaean Greek mainland may also have seized
this opportunity to raid the island while it was temporarily defenceless; this
may well account for the wealth of gold and other treasure -- much of it obviously
Cretan -- found in the later royal shaft graves at Mycenae. |
| The
New Palaces: 1700 - 1450 BC | Though
the destruction must have been a setback, Minoan culture continued to flourish,
and with the palaces reconstructed on a still grander scale, the society entered
its golden age. It is the new palaces that provide us with most of our picture
of Minoan life and most of what is seen at the great sites -- Knossos, Festos,
Malia, Zakros -- dates from this period. The
architecture of the new palaces was of an unprecedented sophistication: complex,
multistory structures in which the use of space and light was as luxurious as
the construction materials. Grand stairways, colonnaded porticoes and courtyards,
brightly frescoed walls, elaborate plumbing and drainage, and great magazines
in which to store the society's accumulation of wealth, were all integral, as
were workshops for the technicians and craftsmen. and areas set aside for ritual
and worship. |  |
|
Obviously it was only the elite who enjoyed these comforts, but conditions for
the ordinary people who kept Minos and attendants in such style appear to have
improved too: towns around the palaces and at sites such as Gournia and Palekastro
werre growing as well. (It was Arthur Evans who named Minoan society after the
legendary King Minos, but there is little doubt that Minos was in fact the title
of a dynasty of priest/kings, a word rather than pharaoh.)
Very
little is known of how the society was organized, or indeed whether it was a single
entity ruled from Knossos or simply several city-states with a common cultural
heritage. However, in an intriguing reference to Crete in his politics, Aristotle
implied that a caste system had operated in the time of Minos. Clearly, though,
it was a society in which religion played an important part. The great Corridor
of the Procession fresco at Knossos depicted an annual delivery of tribute, apparently
to a Mother Goddess; bull-leaping had a religious significance too; and in all
the palaces substantial chambers were set aside for ritual purposes. Secular leaders
were also religious leaders. That
Minoan society was a very open one was apparent too. There are virtually no defenses,
internal or external, at any Minoan site, and apparently the rulers felt no threat
either from within or without, which has led scholars to emphasise a military
strength based on seapower. As far as internal dissent goes, it seems safe to
assume that the wealth of the island filtered down, to some extent at least, to
all its inhabitants: the lot of a Minoan peasant may have been little different
from that of a Cretan villager as little as fifty years ago. |
|
Externally, maritime supremacy was further extended: objects of Cretan manufacture
turn up all over the Mediterranean and have even been claimed as far afield as
Britain and Scandinavia (amber from the Baltic certainly found its way to Crete).
Behind their seapower, the Minoans clearly felt safe, and the threat of attack
or piracy was further reduced by the network of colonies or close allies throughout
the Cycladic islands -- Thira most famously but also at Milos, Naxos, Paros, Mikonos,
Andhros, and Dilos -- and in Rhodes, Cyprus, Syria and North Africa. Nevertheless,
this appears to have remained a trading empire rather than a military one.
|  |
| If
the New Palaces period was a high point of Minoan power, it also marked the apogee
of arts and crafts in the island; again, the bulk of the objects you'll admire
in the museums dates from this era. The frescoes -- startling in their freshness
and vitality -- are the most famous and obviously visable demonstrations of this
florescence. But they were just the highly visable tip of an artistic iceberg.
It was in intricate small-scale work that the Minoans excelled above all. Naturalistic
sculpted figures of humans and animals include the superb ivory bull-leaper, the
leopard-head axe and the famous snake goddesses or priestesses, all of them on
show at the Heraklion Archeological Museum. The carvings on seal stones of this
era are of exceptional delicacy -- a skill carried over into beautifully delicate
gold jewelry. Examples of stone vessels include the bull's head rhyton from Knossos
and three black vases from Ayia Triadha, which are among the museum's most valuable
posessions. And pottery broke out in an enormous variety of new shapes and design
motifs, drawing inspiration especially from scenes of nature and marine life. |
|
The other great advance was in writing. A new form of script, Linear A, had appeared
at the end of the First Palace period, but in the new palaces its use became widespread.
Still undeciphered, Linear A must record the original, unknown language of the
Minoans: it seems to have been used in written form almost exclusively for administrative
records -- stock lists, records of transactions and tax payments. Even were it
understood, it seems unlikely that the language would reveal much. The pieces
which have survived were never intended as permanent records, and have been found
intact only where clay tablets used were baked solid in the fires which destroyed
the palaces. It is possible that a more formal record, an abstract of the annual
accounts, was kept on a more valuable but also more perishable material such as
imported papyrus or even paper produced from native date-palm leaves.
|  |
| Around
1600 BC the island again saw minor earthquake damage, though this was swiftly
repaired. But in about 1450 BC came destruction on a calamitous scale: the palaces
were smashed and (with the exception of Knossos itself) burned, and smaller settlements
across the island were devastated. The cause of this disaster is still the most
controversial of all Minoan riddles, but the most convincing theory links with
the explosion of the volcano of Thira in about 1500 BC: a blast which may have
been five times as powerful as that of Krakatoa. The explosion threw up great
clouds of black ash and a huge tidal wave, or waves. Coastal settlements would
have been directly smashed by the wave, and perhaps further burnt by the overturn
of lamps lighted on a day made unnaturally dark by the clouds of ash. Blast, panic
and accompanying earth tremmors would have contributed to the wreck. And then,
as the ash fell, it apparently coated the center and east of the island in a poisonous
blanket under which nothing could grow, or would grow again, for as much as fifty
years. Only
at Knossos was there any real continuity of habitation, and here it was with Mycenaean
Greeks in control, bringing with them new styles of art, a greater number of weapons
and above all keeping records in a form of writing known as Linear B, an adaptation
of Linear A now used to write in an early Greek dialect. In about 1370 BC, Knossos
was itself burnt, whether by rebellious Cretans, a new wave of Mycenaeans or perhaps
as a result of another natural disaster on a smaller scale. Such
at least is the prevailing theory. But it has its problems -- why, for example,
should Festos have been burnt when it was safe from waves and blast on the southside
of the island? And why should the eruption that volcanologists now date to 1500
BC have had such a dramatic effect only fifty years later -- indeed there are
signs that away from the worst effects of the devastation many areas on Crete
experienced comparative prosperity after it. As the debate continues, the best
that can be said currently is that the volcano theory fits the available evidence
better than most of its rivals. But many scholars still claim that the facts are
more consistent with destruction by human rather than natural causes. The main
counter-theory assumes invasion by the Mycenaeans, and points to some evidence
that Linear B was in use at Knossos before 1450 BC. But if the Mycenaeans came
to conquer, they would have gained nothing by destroying the society already flourishing
on Crete; nor would they have subsequently left the former population centres
deserted for a generation or more. A
third theory attemps to answer these inconsistencies, suggesting that an internal
revolt by the populace against its rulers (posibly in the wake of the chaos caused
by the Thira eruption) could provide an explanation. This theory would fit the
evidence from sites such as Mirtos Pirgos on the south coast, where a villa dominating
the site was burned down while the surrounding settlement remained untouched.
Needless to say this theory does not find favour with those who see Minoan civilization
as a haven of tranquil splendour, but it does fit with the later Greek tradition
of a tyrannical Minos oppressing not only his own people but those abroad as well.
Further archeological investigation both on Crete and other islands in the Aegean
may ultimately resolve the Minoan mystery. |
| Post-Palatial:
1450 - 1100 BC |
From
their bridgehead at Knossos, the Mycenaeans gradually spread their influences
across the island as it became habital again. By the early fourteenth century
BC they controlled much of Crete, and some of the earlier sites, including Gournia,
Ayia Triadha, Tilissos and Palekastro, were reoccupied. It is a period which is
still little-known and which was written off by the early Minoan scholars almost
entirely. However, more recent excavations are revealing that the island remained
productive, albeit in a role peripheral to the mainland. |  |
|
In particular western Crete now came into its own, as the area least affected
by the volcano. Kydonia became the chief city of the island, still with a considerable
international trade and continuing, in its art and architecture, very much in
the Minoan style. But Kydonia lies beneath modern Hania and has never been (nor
is ever likely to be) properly excavated -- another reason that far less is known
of this period than those which preceded. In central Crete, the main charge was
a retreat from the coasts, a sign of the island's decline in international affairs
and trade and perhaps of an increase in piracy. Even here, however, despite the
presence of new influences, much of the art is recognizably Minoan. Most of the
famous clay and stone larnakes (sarcophagi) -- which were a distinctly new method
of burial -- date from this final Minoan era.
More
direct evidence of the survival of Crete comes in Homer's account of the Trojan
War, when he talks of a Cretan contingent taking part under King Idomeneus (according
to him, the grandson of Minos). The war and its aftermath -- a period of widespread
change -- also affected Crete. In the north of Greece the Mycenaeans were being
overrun by peoples moving down from the Balkans, in particular the Dorians. Around
1200 BC the relative peace was disrupted again: many sites were abandoned again
for the last time, others burnt. Briefly, Mycenaean influence became yet more
widespread, as refugees arrived on the island. But by the end of the twelfth century
BC, Minoan culture was in terminal decline, and Crete was entering into the period
of confusion which engulfed most of the Greek world. Some of the original population
of the island, later known as Eteo-Cretans (true Cretans), retreated at this time
to mountain fastnesses at sites such as Presos and Karfi, where they survived,
along with elements of Minoan culture and language, for almost another millennium.
| | The
Iron Age: Dorian and Classical Crete |
|
The bulk of the island, however, was taken over by the Dorians: there may have
been an invasion, but it seems more probable that the process was a gradual one,
by settlement. In any event, over the succeeding centuries the Dorians came to
dominate the central lowlands, with substantial new cities such as Lato near modern
Ayios Nikalaos.
Dorian
Crete was not in any real sense a unified society: its cities warred with each
other and there may, as well as the Dorians and Eteo-Cretans, have been other
cultural groupings in the west, at Kydonia and sites such as Falasarna and Polyrinia.
Nevertheless the island saw another minor artistic renaissance, with styles now
mostly shared with the rest of the Greek world; in the making of tools and weapons
iron gradually came to replace bronze. |
| Much
the most important survival of this period, however, is the celebrated law
code from Gortys. The code was set down around 450 BC, but it reflects
laws which had already been in force for hundreds of years: the society described
is a strictly hierarchical one, clearly divided into a ruling class, free men,
serfs and slaves. For the ruler, life followed a harsh, militaristic regime similar
to that of Sparta: the original population, presumably, had been reduced to the
level of serf. |  |
|
As mainland Greece approached its Classical Age, Crete advanced little. It remained
a populous island, but one where a multitude of small city-states were constantly
vying for power. Towns of this period are characterized by their heavy defenses,
and most reflected the Gortys laws (Gortys remained the most powerful among them)
in tough oligarchical or aristocratic regimes. At best, Crete was a minor player
in Greek affairs, increasingly known as the den of pirates and as a valuable source
of mercenaries unrivalled in guerrilla tactics. The island must have retained
influence though, for it was still regarded by Classical Athenians as the source
of much of their culture, and its strict institutions were admired by many philosophers.
In addition, many Cretan shrines show unbroken use from Minoan through to Roman
times, and those associated with the birth and early life of Zeus (the Dhiktean
and Ikean caves especially) were important centres of pilgrimage.
The
multitude of small, independent city-states is well illustrated by the Confederation
of Oreoi, an accord formed around 300 BC between Elyros, Lissos, Hyrtakina, Tarra,
Syia (modern Souyia) and Pikilassos: six towns in a now barely populated area
of the southwest. They were later joined in the Confederation by Gortys and Cyrenaica
(in North Africa). Meanwhile Roman power was growing in the Mediterranean, and
Crete's strategic position and turbulent reputation drew her inexorably into the
struggle. | | Rome
and Byzantium |
From the second
century BC onwards, Rome was drawn into wars on mainland Greece, and the involvement
of Cretan troops on one or often both sides became an increasing irritation. Hannibal
was staying at Gortys at the time of one Roman attempt to pacify the island, around
188 BC. More than a century passed with only minor interventions, however,
before Rome could turn its full attention to Crete -- the last important part
of the Greek world not under its sway. In
71 BC Marcus Antonius (father of Mark Antony) attempted to invade but was
heavily defeated by the Kydonians. A fresh attempt was made under Quintus Metellus
(afterwards called Creticus) in 69 BC. This time, a bridgehead was successfully
established by exploiting divisions among the Cretans: Metellus was supported
in his initial campaign against Kydonia by its rivals at Polyrinia. The tactic
of setting Cretan against Cretan served him well, but even so it took almost three
years of bitter and brutal warfare before the island was subdued in 67 BC.
It was a campaign marked by infighting not only among the Cretans -- Gortys was
among those to take Metellus's side -- but also between Romans, with further forces
sent from Rome in an unsuccessful bid to curb Metellus's excesses and his growing
power.
With the conquest complete, peace came quickly and was barely disrupted even in
the turbulent years of Julius Ceasar's rise and fall. Perhaps this was in part
because there was little immediate change in local administration, which was simply
placed under Roman supervision. At the same time, the end of the civil wars brought
much greater prosperity: Crete was combined with Cyrenaica (in North Africa) as
a single province whose capital was at Gortys, and though there was little contact
between the two halves of the province, both were important sources of grain and
agriculture produce for Rome. Through
the first and second centuries AD, public works were undertaken throughout Crete:
roads, aqueducts and irrigation systems, important cities at Knossos, Aptera,
Lyttos and others, as well as considerable grandeur at Gortys. Christianity arrived
with St Paul's visit around 50 AD; soon after, he appointed Titus as the island's
first bishop to begin the conversion in earnest. Around 250 AD, the Holy Ten --
Ayii Dheka -- were martyred at Gortys, probably during the first great persecution
of the Christians initiated by the emperor Decius. With
the split of the Roman empire at the end of the fourth century, Crete found itself
part of the eastern empire under Byzantium. The island continued to prosper --
as the churches which were now built everywhere would testify -- but in international
terms, it was not important and Byzantine rule, here as everywhere, imposed a
stiflingly ordered society, hierarchical and bureaucratic in the extreme. Of the
earliest churches only traces survive, in particular of mosaic floors like those
at Souyis or Thronos, though there are more substantial remains at Gortys, of
the basilica of Ayios Titos. |
Then in 824
Crete was invaded by a band of Arabs under Abu Hafs Omar. Essentially a piratical
group who had been driven first from Spain and then Alexandria, they nevertheless
managed to keep control of the island for well over a century. There was not much
in the way of progress at this time -- for its new masters, the island was primarily
a base from which to raid shipping and launch attacks on the Greek mainland and
other islands -- but there was a fortress founded at al-Khandak, a site which
later developed into Heraklion. At the same time Gortys and other Byzantine cities
were sacked and destroyed. |  |
|
After several failed attempts, the Byzantine general Nikiforas Fokas conquered
Crete in 961, following a siege at Khandak in which he catapulted the heads of
his Arab prisoners over the walls. For a while the island revived, boosted by
an influx of colonists from the mainland and from Constantinople itself, including
a number of aristocratic families (the Arhontopouli) whose power survived throughout
the midieval era. By now, however, the entire empire was embattled by Islam and
losing out in trade to the Venetians and Genoese. Frescoed churches continued
to be built, but were small and parochial.
Ironically
enough it was not Muslims who brought about the final end of Byzantine rule, but
Crusaders. The fourth Crusade turned on Constantinople in 1204 (at the instigation
of the Venetians) sacking and burning the city. The leader of the Crusade, Prince
Boniface of Montferrat, ceded Crete to the Venetians for a nominal sum. |
| Venetian
Crete |
Before Venice could claim its new territory, it had to drive out its chief commercial
rivals, the Genoese, who had taken control in 1206 with considerable local support.
By 1210 the island had been secured, though for more than a century thereafter
the Genoese persued their claim, repeatedly siding with local rebels when it looked
like there was a chance of establishing a presence on the island. |
The Venetians, however, were not going to surrender the prize lightly. Crete for
them was a vital source, both for control of the eastern Mediterranean trade routes
which the island's ports commanded, and for the natural wealth of the agricultural
land and the timber for shipbuilding. The Venetian system was rapidly and stringently
imposed, with Venetian overlords, directly appointed from Venice, administering
what were effectively a series of feudal fiefdoms. |  |
It was a system designed to exploit Crete's resources as efficiently as possible,
and not surprisingly it stirred up deep resentments from the beginning. There
were constant rebellions throughout the thirteenth century, led as often as not
by one or other of the aristocratic Byzantine families from an earlier wave of
colonization. Certainly the wealthy had the most to lose: it was their land which
was confiscated to be granted to military colonists from Venice (along with the
service of the people who lived on it), and their rights and privileges which
were taken over by the new overlords. The rebellions were in general strictly
noble affairs, ended by concessions of land or power to the Cretan leaders. But
there were more fundamental resentments too. Heavy taxes and demands for feudal
service were widely opposed -- by the established colonists almost as much as
by the natives. And the Orthodox Church was replaced by the Roman as the "official"
religion, the senior clergy expelled and much Church property siezed. Local priests
and monastaries which survived helped fuel antagonism: even from this early date
the monastaries were becoming known as centers of dissent. In
the mid-fourteenth century, one of the most serious revolts yet saw Cretans and
second-generation Venetians fighting alongside each other, in protest of the low
fixed prices for their produce, steep taxes and the continued privileges granted
to the "real" Venetians. Although on this occasion the revolt was put
down in a particularly fierce repression, the end result of this and the other
rebellions was a gradual relaxation of the regime and integration of the two communities
-- or at least their leaders. The Middle Ages were perhaps the most productive
in Crete's history, with exports of corn, wine, oil and salt, the ports busy with
transhipment business and the wooded hillsides being stripped for timber.
|
After 1453,
and the final fall of Constantinople, Crete was a spectacular cultural renaissance
as a stream of refugees arrived from the east. Candia -- as the island and its
capital were known to the Venetians -- became the center of Byzantine art and
acholarship. From this later period, and the meeting of the traditions of Byzantine
and the Italian Renaissance, come the vast majority of the works of art and architecture
now associated with the Venetian era. The great icon painter Dhamaskinos studied
alongside El Greco in the school of Ayia Ekaterini in Heraklion; the Orthodox
monasteries flourished; and in literature the island produced, among others, what
is now regarded as its greatest work -- the Erotokritos. |  |
|
But it was the growing external threat which stimulated the most enduring of the
Venetian public works -- the island defenses. Venice's bastions in the mainland
Middle East had fallen alongside Constantinople, and in 1573 Cypress too was taken
by the Turks, leaving Crete well and truly in the front line. Large-scale pirate
raids had already been common: in 1538 Barbarossa had destroyed Rethimnon and
almost taken Hania, and in the 1560's there were further attacks. Across the island,
cities were strengthened and the fortified islets defending the seaways were repaired
and rebuilt. As the seventeenth century wore on however, Venice itself was in
severe decline; Mediterranean trade was overshadowed by the New World, a business
dominated by the Spanish, English and Dutch.
Finally,
in 1645 an attack on an Ottoman convoy provided an excuse for an all-out Turkish
assault on Crete. Hania fell after a siege which cost forty thousand Turkish lives,
and Rethimnon rapidly followed. By 1648 the Turks controlled the whole island
except Heraklion, and they settled down to a long siege. For twenty one years
the city resisted, supplied from the sea and with moral support from most of Europe.
The end was inevitable, though, and from the Turkish point of view there was no
hurry: they controlled the island's produce, they were well supplied, and they
enjoyed a fair degree of local support, having relaxed the Venetian rules -- for
example, they allowed Orthodox bishops back into Crete. By 1669 the city was virtually
reduced, and in a final effort the Pope managed to persuade the French to send
a small army. After a couple of fruitless sorties involving heavy losses, the
French withdrew in an argument over command. On September 5, the city surrendered,
leaving only the three fortified islets of Soudha, Spinalonga and Gramvousa in
the Venetian hands, where they remained until surrendered by treaty in 1715.
| | Turkish
Crete | |
It
was arguable whether the Turkish occupation was ever as stringent or arduous as
the Venetian had been, but its reputation is far worse. In part this may simply
be that its memory is more recent, but Turkish rule was complicated too by the
religious differences involved, and by the fact that it survived into the era
of resurgent Greek nationalism and Great Power politics.
If
on their arrival the Turks had been welcomed, it was not a long-lived honeymoon.
Once again Crete was divided, now between powerful pashas, and once again it was
regarded merely as a resource to be exploited. The Ottoman Empire was less strictly
ordered than the Venetian, but it demanded no less: rather than attempt to take
control of trade themselves, the Turks simply imposed crippling taxes. There were
fewer colonists than in the Venetian era, and they took far less interest in their
conquest so long as the money continued to come in. Very little was reinvested:
outside the cities there was hardly any building at all, and roads and even defenses
fell into gradual disrepair. As far as local administration went, it was left
to local landlords and the mercenary Janissaries they controlled to impose. At
the local level, there was a further level of exploitation as these men too took
their cut. Stultified by heavy taxes and tariffs, slowed by neglect, the island
economy stagnated. One
of the worst ways to avoid the worst of the burden was to become a Muslim and,
gradually, the majority of the Christian population was converted to Islam --
at least nominally. Conversion brought with it substantial material advantages
in taxation and rights to own property, and it helped avoid the worst of the repression
which inevitably followed any Christian rebellion. These Greek Muslims were not
particularly religious: even among the Turks on the island, Islamic law seems
to have been loosely interpreted, and many continued to worship as Christians
in secret, but the mass apostasies served to further divide the island. For those
who remained openly Christian the burden became increasingly heavy as there were
fewer to bear it. Many took to the mountains, where Turkish authority barely reached.
|
As the occupation
continued, the Turks strengthened their hold on the cities and the fertile plains
around them, while the mountains became the stronghold of the Christian palikares.
The first major rebellion came in 1770, and inevitably it was centered in Sfakia.
Under Dhaskaloyiannis the Cretans had been drawn into Great Power politics: drawn
in and abandoned, for the promised aid from Russia never came. With the failure
of this struggle, Sfakia was itself brought under Turkish control for a while.
But a pattern had been set, and the nineteenth century saw an almost constant
struggle for independence. |  |
At
the beginning of the century Ottoman Empire was under severe pressure on the Greek
mainland, and in 1821 full-scale revolution, the Greek War of Independence, broke
out. Part of the Turkish response was to call on the pasha of Egypt, Mehmet Ali,
for assistance: his price was control of Crete. By 1824, in a campaign which even
by Cretan standards was brutal on both sides, he had crushed the island's resistance.
When in 1832 an independent Greek state was finally established with the support
of Britain, France and Russia, Crete was left in the hands of the Egyptians, reverting
to Turkish control within ten years. From
now on Guerilla warfare in support of union with Greece -- enosis -- was almost
constant, flaring occasionally into wider revolts but mostly taking the form of
incessant raids and irritations. The Cretans enjoyed widespread support, not only
of the Greek mainland but throughout western Europe, and especially among expatriate
Greek communities. But the Greeks alone were no match for the Ottoman armies,
and the Great Powers, wary more than anything of each other, consistantly failed
to intervene. There was a major rising in 1841, bloodily suppressed, and in 1858
another which ended relatively peacefully in the recall of the Turkish governor
and some minor concessions of the Christian population. In
1866 a Cretan Assembly meeting in Sfakia declared independence and union with
Greece, and Egyptian troops were recalled to put down a further wave of revolts
bolstered by Greek volunteers. Again the Egyptians proved ruthlessly effective,
but this campaign ended in the explosion at Arkadhi, an act of defiance which
aroused Europe-wide sympathy. The Great Powers -- Britain above all -- still refused
to involve themselves, but privately the supply of arms and volunteers to the
insurgents was redoubled. From now on some kind of solution seemed inevitable,
but even in 1878 the Congress of Berlin left Crete under Turkish dominion, demanding
only further reforms in the government. In 1889 and 1896 there were further violent
encounters, and in 1897 a Greek force landed to annex the island. Finally, The
Great Powers were forced into action, occupying Crete with an international force
and dividing the island into areas controlled by British, French, Russians and
Italians. | | Independence
and Union with Greece | |
The outrage which finally
brought about the expulsion of Turkish troops from Crete in 1898 was a minor skirmish
which led to the death of the British vice-consul. A national fovernment was set
up, still nominally under Ottoman suzerainity, with Pronce George, younger son
of King George of Greece, as high commissioner: under him was a joint Muslim-Christian
assembly, part elected, part appointed.
|
| Euphoria
at independence was muted, however, for full union with Greece remained the goal
of most Cretans. A new leader of this movement rapidly emerged -- Eleftherios
Venizelos. Born at Mournies, outside Hania, Venizelos had fought in the earlier
independence struggles, and become a member of the Cretan Assembly and minister
of justice to Prince George. Politically, however, he had little in common with
his new master, and in 1905 he summoned an illegal Revolutionary Assembly at Theriso.
Though the attempt to take up arms was summarily crushed, the strength of support
for Venizelos was enough to force the resignation of Prince George. In 1908, the
Cretan Assembly unilaterally declared enosis -- much to the embarassment of the
Greek government. For the meantime the "Young Turk" revolution looked
set to revitalize the Ottoman Empire, and the Great Powers remained solidly opposed
to anything that might upset the delicate balance of power in the Balkans. | 
Eleftherios Venizelos
| |
The failure of the Greek government
to act decisively in favor of Crete was one of the factors that led to the Military
League of Young officers forcing political reform on the mainland. With their
backing, Venizelos became premier of Greece in 1910. In 1912 Greece, Serbia and
Bulgaria declared war on the Ottoman Empire, making spectacular advances into
Turkish territory. By the Peace of 1913, Crete finally and officially became part
of the Greek Nation.
Thought
Greece was politically riven by World War I, and succeeding decades was frequent,
sometimes violent changes of power between Venizelist and Royalist forces, Crete
was little affected. On just one further occasion did the island play a significant
role in Greek affairs before the outbreak of war in 1940: in July 1938 there was
a popular uprising against the dictator Metaxas and in favor of Venizelos, but
it was swiftly put down. The
island was, however, hit hard by the aftermath of the disasterous Greek attempt
to conquer Istanbul in persuit of the "Great Idea" of rebuilding the
Byzantine Empire. As part of the peace settlement that followed this military
debacle, there was a forced exchange of populations in 1923: Muslims were expelled
from Greece and Orthodox Christians from Turkey. In Crete many of these "Turks"
were in fact Muslim Cretans, descendants of the mass apostasies of the eighteenth
century. Nevertheless they left -- some thirty thousand in all -- and a similar
number of Christian refugees from Turkey took their place. |
| War
and Occupation | |
In the winter of 1940
Italian troops invaded northern Greece, only to be thrown back across the Albanian
border by the Greek army. Mussolini's humiliation, however, only served to draw
the Germans into the fight, and although an Allied army was sent to Greece, the
mainland was rapidly overrun.
The
Allied campaign was marked from the start by suspicion, confusion, and lack of
communication between the two commands. On the Greek side Metaxas had died in
January, and his successor as premier committed suicide, leaving a Cretan -- Emmanuel
Tsouderos -- to organize the retreat of king and government to his native island.
They were rapidly followed by thousands of evacuees, including the bulk of the
Allied army, a force made up in large part of Australlian and New Zealand soldiers.
Most of the native Cretan troops, a division of the Greek army, had been wiped
out in defense of the mainland. More
to come... | |
|

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