(February 2005)

The New York Times Identifies The Northwest Passage as the premier source for Polar Adventures.

Full story...

(April 2005)

Chicago Sun-Times: "Labors of Love" features The Northwest Passage's very own Annie Aggens, Polar Director. Annie loves what she does...why is that?

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(May 2004)

GoGreece.about.com's De Traci Regula, experienced first-hand what it means to travel with The Northwest Passage.

Full story (at gogreece.about.com)

(March 2004)

Men's Journal special edition of "Master's of the Universe", selects The Northwest Passage to represent the United States.

Full story...

(September 2004)

The New York Times Travel: "In Crete, Mobility with a Guide". This special article is a first-hand experience of one of our most memorable trips.

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(March 2004)

Outside Magazine's "48 Trips of a Lifetime", recognizes The Northwest Passage as one of the world's best!

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(March 2001)

Outside Magazine's "Best Trips of 2001: Island Escapes", identifies The Northwest Passage's Crete Cycling Adventure as the cream of the crop.

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40-New Trips of a Lifetime (March 2006) Featuring Sea Kayaking the Mediterranean Coast with The Northwest Passage

Sea Kayaking and Sailing the Turquoise Sea, Turkey
From Outside Magazine: "Scout Turkey's dramatic Mediterranean shoreline from the cockpit of a sea kayak on this eight-day multisport adventure. Then explore it on foot with a local guide, visiting ancient Lycian rock tombs, Apollo's birthplace, and tiny Kas and chic and lively 2,400-year-old village. A luxurious wooden gulet with a gourmet chef is your floating hotel, but the starry nights will make you ditch your stateroom for a mattress on deck. Paddle your kayak along empty beached before dipping into Greece to snorkel over sunken ruins." Eight-day tours from $3495 depart September.

Difficulty: Moderate

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ISLANDS "An Olympian Paddle" (March 2006) By Rolf Potts As I paddle my kayak along the mountainous edge of Crete's southwest coast, I hear a strange sound and slow to a glide. Resting my paddle across my lap, I try to place the sound. Is it a wind chime? The clank of cooking pot? For a moment I hear nothing as I carefully scan the sheer, pale-tan cliffs of the shore.

Normally, a lone sound wouldn't be so fascinating to me, but along this empty edge of Crete, any sign of onshore life comes as a novelty. Yesterday, for example, I was entranced by a group of Greek women dressed in black, lined up outside a shrine to St Paul.

I soon spot a shepherd and his flock negotiating the steep slopes of the shore, and then recognize the sound I'd heard as the tinkling of goat bells. Though unremarkable, their progress is strangely bewitching in this barren landscape. I bob on the waves and watch the pastoral spectacle for several minutes before dipping my paddle into the water and moving on.

Such empty ruggedness, a world away from the tourists that populate the north coast of the island, is what brought me to this part of Crete, known as Sfakia - that and the chance to sharpen my kayaking skills in a region where goats outnumber people, and where rounding each new headland promises a dramatic vista of cliffs, caves and brilliant blue waters. To mainland Greeks, it's said, Crete feels far-flung and isolated; to the Cretans themselves, Sfakia feels far-flung and isolated.

For the past couple of days, 10 other Americans and I have been paddling our way along the Cretan coast. Our guide is Rick Sweitzer, a fit silver-haired Chicagoan whose outfitting company, Northwest Passage, has been leading kayaking and bicycling adventures on Crete for 25 years. After two initial days of kayak training at the 1960s hippie haunt of Matala, where ancient Roman cave-mausoleums honeycomb the cliffs, my companions and I took a shuttle van west in the White Mountains of Sfakia and hiked 15 miles through the forested national park in Samaria Gorge down to the deep turquoise waters of the Libyan Sea.

Rick met us nearby with a support van and a trailer full of kayaks. From the coastal village of Agia Roumeli, our goal is to paddle the coast of Sfakia, sleeping in the village of Loutro and exploring the region's capital, the town of Sfakia. Beyond Sfakia, we plan to paddle to the more-traveled beach communities of Plakias and Agia Galini before negotiating an open-water crossing back to Matala - a sum total of 75 miles by sea. Though kayaking this far in a little under a week seems like a challenging task, in practice it has proven quite pleasant and manageable, as the bulk of our gear is shipped ahead of us by van and ferry.

Each morning, we wake up early and paddle for five or six hours, stopping en route for coffee, lunch, a swim and the occasional cliff-dive. At night, we stop in coastal villages to sleep in local inns and dine on grilled fish, Greek salad and honey-baked Sfakiot cheese-pie - all washed down with a house wine and raki, a local Cretan firewater distilled from grape skins.

Most of my companions are here to savor this sublime combination of physical challenge, natural beauty and fine dining, but I find my biggest thrill in the small details that underscore our novel isolation in this well-visited corner of the Mediterranean.

On our third day of paddling, we come ashore and notice a ruined 14th-century Venetian fortress sporting a makeshift weightlifting set fashioned out of iron bars and cement blocks. Curious, I hike back down the ridge into the small village of Loutro in an attempt to find the bodybuilder.

Midway down the coast of Sfakia, Loutro is a lovely, palm-lined fishing town that rims the only natural harbor on the south coast of Crete. According to the Bible's Book of Acts, before a storm sent his ship careening toward Malta this harbor was intended to be St. Paul's winter haven in Crete. My arrival proves much more pleasant and, with Rick's help, I'm eventually able to find the man who built the improvised gym in the Venetian ruins. Tall and broad-shouldered, with sandy hair and a low-buttoned white shirt, he look like the kind of guy who might find pleasure in smashing plates over his head or picking up tables with his teeth. His name is Pavlo Kantounatakis.

"I don't lift weights that much anymore," he says as he prepares a table for us at Sifis, his taverna and inn. "I was in much better shape when I was living in Cleveland."

"Cleveland?"
"There was a time when the only jobs for young men in Loutro were with international shipping companies. A generation of men from Loutro saw the whole world this way." Pavlo proceeds to tell me how, after many years at sea, he settled in Cleveland and made a small fortune painting bridges. Eventually, he took the money back to Loutro and opened the whitewashed, blue-shuttered Sifis Inn. "We have a reputation for being provincial n this part of Crete, but Loutro isn't that way anymore. We're the most cosmopolitan town in Sfakia."

Pavlo is right: Though technically a fishing village, nearly every building along the Loutro waterfront has been transformed into an inn or restaurant. Small groups of French, Norwegians and Canadians - lounge in the restaurants at night. With clear blue-green water, pebbly beaches and no motor traffic, the village has a wonderfully sleepy atmosphere.

The following day my fellow kayakers and I load up and continue our progress along the Cretan coast. Morning is my favorite time for kayaking in Crete. The weather is still cool, and the light bathes the cliffs in brilliant colors. I veer off from my companions and paddle slowly, enjoying the calm water and the morning silence, watching tiny seedpods skitter along the water's surface while school of small fish dart beneath me.

Eventually I catch up to the others, and we stop in the comparatively urban town of Sfakia, which is connected to the rest of the island by road. Over lunch, a charismatic, mustachioed gentleman named Stavros Magelakis tells me about the time in 2004 when the president of Greece came to visit Sfakia. "He gave a speech against the use of guns," Stavros says. This is a big problem in Sfakia: People are always getting hurt shooting off guns at weddings, or turning them against each other in family vendettas. The president's speech was very convincing, and the people of Sfakia gave him a huge ovation. Then we declared him an honorary citizen and presented him with a gum."

"A gun?" I ask.

Stavros smiles and shrugs. "They didn't mean to contradict the president; it's just that a gun is such and appropriate Sfakian gift. We have always been here, resistance fighters, men of strength and honor. Nobody considered the irony"

After lunch, we leave town and paddle for the rest of the day.
We churned past 23 miles of gorgeous coast line - our longest day of kayaking - and finally arrive in the town of Plakias before dusk. Here, I notice that the random indicators of coastal solitude have given way to more conventional tourist landmarks: sandy beaches lined with umbrellas, speedboats and water taxis, waterfront tavernas full of Brits blasing techno music.

A check of my map confirms my suspicion: We have crossed out of Sfakia and into a less mountainous, more accessible stretch of Crete. Paved roads head inland toward the major cities of the island, and my sense of isolation is momentarily shattered.

Fortunately, I have two more days of kayaking to indulge my craving for solitude. The following morning, I wake up, pull my kayak down the beach and paddle out in the deep blue waters.

PLAN YOUR TRIP! Islands.com/crete

Cretan Solitude

OPA! Kayak with Northwest Passage, a U.S.-based outfitter that runs trips along Crete's rugged south. Fly into the Heraklion airport, where you will be met by English-speaking guides who will transfer you to Matala. There, you'll learn and practice some paddling skills to prepare for your adventure. After two nights in Matala, hike to Agia Roumeli, the starting point for the kayaking. From there the group will paddle southeast, stopping at secluded villages like charming Loutro and staying at family-owned inns. Trips in 2006 begin May 20; rates start at $2,595 for eight days and seven nights. nwpassage.com

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For more information about Northwest Passage trips, phone 1.800.RECREATE (732.7328) or visit www.nwpassage.com. An upcoming yoga trip to Crete is scheduled for May 6-13 and October 2-9, 2005.

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YOGAChicago Yoga on Crete, Kayaking on the Aegean By Jennifer Blackman

My trip to Greece was not a Shirley Valentine-inspired attempt to escape domestic drudgery; nor was it a Desperate Housewives plot to spread a little gossip. My trip to Greece was born from a simple suggestion from a friend, a perfect gift of encouragement after my mother’s death.

My friend Helen’s husband, Rick Sweitzer, who owns The Northwest Passage--a Wilmette, Illinois-based company that sponsors kayaking trips and other adventures--and is a true adventurer in his own right, had a trip planned to Crete, the largest of the Greek Islands. The fact that this particular trip was a yoga/kayaking adventure did not seem to intimidate me at the time, even though I had taken maybe one or two yoga classes and had the flexibility of a two-by-four. The yoga portion of this trip was under the guidance of Suddha Weixler, director of Chicago Yoga Center, and, though hard to believe, he catered to all levels of yoga practice.

The adventure began when I landed in Heraklion. George Stavroulakis, a local retired sea captain, met me at the airport, sign in hand, and chauffeured me through the hilly countryside of Crete dotted with olive trees, vineyards, small shrines on the roadside and ruins full of stories. He was a virtual and vocal historian, relating much about Crete’s divisive history, yet one that was also glowing with national pride. As we drove through many small villages and into Matala, I understood the pride--the people with their lined faces, the buildings brimming with vibrant colors, the charm and aromas of open-air restaurants with scattered customers casually conversing and, finally, that first glimpse of the Aegean Sea. Never had I seen such vibrant, jeweled blues and clear, inviting water. The color had been described as turquoise, but honestly it is a blue so rich, so deep and penetrating that it can’t be conveyed with words. It was beginning to happen, just as Rick had said it would, this kind of awakening and engaging of one’s senses.

All the rooms we stayed in had balconies with beautiful sea views. In Matala, we were surrounded by the famous caves and cliffs that were visited by such seventies music royalty as Cat Stevens and Bob Dylan. It was here on the beach, just at sunset, where I joined Rick, Helen, our Northwest Passage guides, Nancy Vedder and Adam Walsh, and the rest of our group. With beverages and appetizers in hand, we introduced ourselves, listened to our itinerary and headed off to our first dinner together.

The food in Crete deserves a few words. All dining was al fresco and was a festive affair. The synergy that occurred in our group was memorable. There is no question that meals so fresh, so fragrant and so plentiful--fish caught from the sea, saganaki (fried cheese), dolmades (stuffed grape leaves), eggplant salads and tzatziki (yogurt sauce)--set the stage for lasting friendships. There were always bottomless carafes of wine and an occasional shot of raki (the local “firewater”) offered by the host to welcome his guests. Perhaps the fact that everywhere we ate we were treated more as family than as customers added to our ability to relax and get to know one another.

The second day we were introduced to the themes of our adventure vacation--yoga and kayaking. We woke early to practice meditation and yoga on the rooftop of our hotel. Next, we headed to the beach for a quick kayaking lesson. Our guides taught those of us who did not know much about kayaking everything we needed to know. Then we were off into the Aegean Sea, in and out of a sea cave blanketed with bats, and on to a remote beach for a little mud bathing and our first set of documented yoga poses.

Dinner was always preceded by a yoga class. I must admit that even as a novice, I was feeling stronger by the third session. Downward-facing dog no longer left my arms feeling like Jello. The beauty of practicing yoga on this trip with all levels of participants was that each person did his or her own thing. Suddha would give options for those who were advanced and gently adjust the beginners. Everybody found the level of yoga posture that he or she needed without judgment or competition.

When we packed up the Northwest Passage vans the next morning for our trip to the Samarian Gorge, not many words were spoken. It’s amazing how Matala had simultaneously introduced us to Crete and infused us with the sights, sounds, tastes and smells of Greece. As we drove through the mountains and up to the legendary Samarian Gorge (the longest gorge in all of Europe), the majesty of this beautiful island once again pulled us back into the moment. We arrived at lunchtime, and after a few yoga stretches, we were off on our five-hour hike down the gorge. Our journey down was full of captivating conversations. Only the sheer beauty of the rock formations, the ringing bells of a herd of mountain goats or our ever-present need to break into a yoga pose silenced us.

When we reached the end of the gorge and stumbled into our second village, Agia Roumeli, which can only be reached by foot or sea, we were reenergized by its charm and beauty. I can only compare this town to something like the Greek version of Brigadoon. The family-run inn we stayed in was at the end of this tiny village’s cobblestoned street. The owners greeted us and continued to treat us as if we were long lost relatives. Once we settled in, Helen and Kristen, both massage therapists, offered much-needed foot massages.

Finally, we were off to our final destination. After morning yoga, we paddled out to sea again to visit a remote beach with a tiny chapel purported to have been built by Saint Paul upon his arrival in Crete. Chapels seemed to pop up in some of the most unexpected places on this island. This reminded us of the island’s deep spiritual and historical roots. It was there on the steps leading to the chapel that we once again spontaneously launched into some of our favorite asanas.

Both Nancy and Adam could only smile when they mentioned Loutro. “Just wait and see,” they would tease. So once again, we paddled through the Aegean Sea toward a new adventure, but this time with great anticipation. With Nancy and Adam at the helm, we never worried about a thing. They left no stone unturned to make us all happy. Without notice, we rounded a projection of land and caught our first glimpse of the small, pristine, blue and white village. There was no question that each stop on this journey was more outstanding than the last! However, the magical, breathtaking, fairy-tale beauty of Loutro simply took our collective breath away. We paused for a celebratory round of yoga poses in the kayaks. Yes, only the experts agreed to this. Getting back into an overturned kayak was no easy feat for the novices among us, even though part of our instruction included mastering this task. Our senses may have been drunk with all we were experiencing, but we were far from it.

Yoga here was special. We practiced outdoors near the tip of the village, where we overlooked the Aegean Sea. If any one picture from Crete remains clear in my mind, it is practicing meditation and yoga in this beautiful venue. Sometimes we could hear the chiming of goat bells or the honking horn of the ferry, but these distractions only heightened our ability to go deeper within. The sheer exhilaration of being in the moment brought our practice to a higher level. The truth is, as one yoga instructor stated, yoga complements Crete.

Our meals continued to be feasts. Our rest became adventure. We could either kayak or hike during the day. One highlight of our stay in Loutro was a midnight paddle that several of us took with Nancy. To be in a kayak on the open sea, looking back at a sparkling village, with a full moon overhead lighting our way, was nothing short of spectacular--and most certainly a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

The next day Suddha took us up into the hills to a site of ruins adorned with a labyrinth made of rocks. Here he spoke to us about the history of yoga and how it evolved into our current practice. There was no limit to what we could learn on this trip; the sheer magnitude of history surrounding Crete and yoga was incomprehensible. We had our final yoga class in an empty churchyard. By now we were all masters at some level. We had learned so much, in so many ways.

Saying goodbye was going to be difficult, and it was beginning to feel like an ending. The fact is, however, after a trip like this, it’s truly a beginning. You are forever changed by spending time in Crete. Add yoga and kayaking and you simply engage more senses, which push you closer to that perfect mind/body balance that Crete and yoga so uniquely invite you to experience--and that you can take home with you and integrate into daily life.

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For more information about Northwest Passage trips, phone 1.800.RECREATE (732.7328) or visit www.nwpassage.com. An upcoming yoga trip to Crete is scheduled for May 6-13 and October 2-9, 2005.

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Kayaking

VIDEO: Brian Brawdy reports.

Apr 28, 2005 6:01 am US/Central
CHICAGO (CBS 2) With more than 27 miles of Chicago lakefront and the countless miles one could spend paddling in Lake Michigan, on the local rivers and in dozens of Park District, Forrest Preserves and Illinois State Park Lakes in the Chicagoland area, it’s easy to see why kayaking is as popular as it is liberating.

It is quite thrill to paddle out into the lake and look back on the skyline as the sun rises in the East. Any time exploring the Fox River is time well spent. You could navigate from your cockpit a preserve or park waterway in Cook, DuPage, Kane, Kendall, Lake, McHenry and Will counties in Illinois and have a blast. When you explore the bordering counties in Wisconsin and Indiana by kayak, you really can have an amazing adventure right here in our own backyard.

According to Keith Heger from The Northwest Passage in Willmette “Lake Michigan and the remaining Great Lakes is the largest body of fresh water in the world. Even though we live in the Midwest, we are far from landlocked.”

click here for full story and video

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KIDS AND KAYAKS

By Margaret Backenheimer
Special to the Tribune
Published April 24, 2005

The picturesque towns of Crete's southern coast are the setting for "Inn-to-Inn Sea Kayaking" family adventures that cover the basics of kayaking. Slated for June 11-18 and June 24-July 1, the paddling trips also allow time for snorkeling, hiking and exploring the beaches. The fee of $2,295 for adults and $1,195 for kids 7-18 years includes accommodations, daily breakfast, most dinners, luggage transfer, kayaking equipment, leadership and van support. Round-trip transportation to Heraklion, Greece, where the trip begins and ends, is additional. Closer to home, Wisconsin's Peninsula State Park serves as the base for the "Sea Kayaking Adventure Weekend," a family camping trip with kayaking on Green Bay the first day and Lake Michigan the second. The fee of $295 for adults and $245 for those ages 7-18 includes most camping gear, most meals, kayaks and leadership. Dates for this one are June 17-19, July 15-17 and Aug. 19-21. Offered by Wilmette-based The Northwest Passage, the Crete and Wisconsin trips are all rated as "easy," requiring no kayaking experience. (800-732-7328; www.nwpassage.com)

Prices generally are per person double and based on availability.

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E-mail: tripsandtips1204@yahoo.com

Copyright © 2005, Chicago Tribune

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April 19, 2005
BY PAIGE WISER Staff Reporter

Annie Aggens

Director of polar operations and expedition leader for the Northwest Passage in Wilmette "I like to guide trips where people are out of their element," says Aggens, "the kind of trips where egos are left behind and people open themselves up to completely new experiences. For instance, at the North Pole, everything is new to people; the drifting pack ice, the extreme cold temperatures, the pressure ridges that can pop out of nowhere... It's a true adventure! The people who join our expeditions are wonderful. They all share a passion for the high latitudes and a lust for living life to its fullest. They are the reason why I love guiding trips to the ends of the Earth."

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Masters of the Universe These outfitters (some of the best-known in the business) claim multiple specialties. Whether you know what you want or need inspiration, think of them as adventure sepermarkets.

THE NORTHWEST PASSAGE This small, family-run company offers an eclectic mix that reflects the personal passions of its owner, Rick Sweitzer. They're best known for skiing trips to the North and South Poles, but they'll also take you inn-to-inn cycling in Ireland or paddle you around their backyard, the Great Lakes region. CLASSIC TRIP Kayaking the remote south coast of Crete, past ancient Greek ruins, sheer cliffs, and old fishing villages ($2495.00 for eight days). 800-723-7328 or nwpassage.com

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February 6 , 2004
Travel
Q & A

By FLORENCE STICKNEY

Published: February 6, 2005

ON TOP OF THE WORLD

I would like to take a trip to the North Pole. Are there agencies that organize these trips? -- Joseph M. Hassett, New York, N.Y.

The North Pole and its vast tracts of pack ice and polar wildlife have been a lure for adventure travelers since Adm. Robert E. Peary made his way there almost a century ago. Not many travelers expect to make the trip in their lifetime, but a variety of options are available -- none cheap, though cheaper than some years ago -- including travel by icebreaker or helicopter or, for the intrepid, on foot, on skis or by dogsled.

One company offering treks to the geographic North Pole, at the 90th parallel, is The Northwest Passage, in Wilmette, Ill., which pioneered such trips in 1993. Rick Sweitzer, Northwest's founder, has been more than a dozen times; group size for the trips has ranged from 6 to 16, with ages 16 to 69. This year, The Northwest Passage is offering a Polar Ski trek (next year it will be part dogsled) from remote Longyearbyen, on the island of Spitzbergen, Norway, with up to eight hours of skiing a day from the Borneo base camp, at 89 degrees north latitude; on reaching the pole, travelers celebrate with champagne and photos and a call home, then are picked up by helicopter. The trip is set for April 9 to 21; $15,500 a person, which includes some clothing and equipment. A Polar Shakedown trip ($2,500; April 5 to 9), a training session, is all but obligatory, and makes the trip much more enjoyable, says Mr. Sweitzer. If such a trek sounds too rigorous, you can take a Champagne Flight by helicopter from the Borneo base camp, $11,500 to $14,000 (three to five days), departing April 9 and 18. Information: (800) 732-7328; www.northpole-expeditions.com.

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Travel
In Crete, Mobility With a Guide

By MARILYNNE RUDICK

Published: September 19, 2004

AS our plane landed in Iraklion, I considered whether sea kayaking in Crete was going to be a peak experience or a long way to go for a gyro sandwich. For years I'd listened enviously to my friends' tales of adventure travel. I have multiple sclerosis, so trekking in Tibet was out. But kayaking -- which requires upper body strength, not leg power -- seemed like a good bet.

After seeing an ad in Outside magazine for inn-to-inn kayaking in Crete, I called the outfitter, The Northwest Passage, and explained what I could do (kayak) and couldn't do (walk more than a short distance). Could they accommodate me on their September trip? ''Absolutely,'' Adam Walsh assured me. He described an eight-day kayaking adventure that combined physical challenge, great natural beauty and the comfort of staying in a family-owned inn -- a firm mattress and a hot shower -- after a hard day of paddling.

Despite Adam's assurances, I worried about my abilities and disabilities. Along with my quick-dry wardrobe and headlamps for exploring sea caves, I packed a hefty supply of books as a hedge.

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48-Trips of a Lifetime Worldwide Wild Italy, Greece, France, Scotland

Greece
Inn-to-Inn Sea Kayaking, Hiking, and Yoga on Crete
(New Trip)
During eight days on Crete's southern coast, perfect your morning sun salutation in an ancient Venetian fortress overlooking the Mediterranean, paddle through Gaudiesque caves, and hike the Samaria Gorge, Europe's version of the Grand Canyon. You'll sleep seaside at quiet family-run inns and lounge on white-pebble Sweetwater Beach, where clear springs flow from the rocks and bathing suits usually get left on the shore.
Outfitter: The Northwest Passage (800-732-7328, www.nwpassage.com)
When to Go: May and October
Price: $2,495
Difficulty: Moderate

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Outside Magazine Best Trips of 2001: Island Escapes Island Escapes

Greece: Cycling Crete
The double steeps: Crete is steeped in history--you'll pass by the ruins of Knossos, Gortyn, and Festos on your week-long journey--and Crete's roads are steep. On this cycling trip you'll power up the islands rugged mountains and coastline as you cycle from inn to inn and taverna to taverna experiencing the best hospitality the Cretans have to offer. Flower-festooned houses greet you as you come out of the mountains and into inland villages. And although it's ancient, Crete loves new visitors. Outfitter: The Northwest Passage When to Go: May, October Price: $1890 Difficulty: Moderate

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